I love that I can live the life of a Rock Star here in China. There are two things that I mean by this, one, I attract a certain amount of attention just based on my European desent which I have already talked about. The second way is that I have a very high standard of living here.
This was demonstrated in Shanghai where I was able to live in relative style for not much money at all. My general philosophy while traveling is to spend as little money as possible on where I am staying, and how I get there (assuming quick and convenient travel), instead using the money I saved to eat well, do as many activities as possible and as much shopping as I want. In Shanghai I stayed at a hostel that cost me 6 dollars a night. This place had a great location, was clean and pretty much all I needed in a place to sleep. It was not the most comfortable bed in the world, but it did the trick. With the money saved on lodging, I was able to eat like a king.
There were numerous culinary highlights on the trip. Shanghai is world famous for their dumplings, and they did not dissapoint. This is a ridiculously inexpensive meal (1.25 for 16 dumplings) that is a match for any food anywhere. Given the option of having dumplings soaked in soy sauce and vinegar compared to almost any meal would be a very difficult choice for me. The combination of the dough and filling is nearly perfect. This was the least expensive meal I had, but also one of the best.
I also went to a Tapas restaurant which was excellent. Nothing exceptional compared to other Tapas places I have been, but excellent. A nice change of pace from typical Chinese and Western fare that is available in China. The highlights of this meal were the fried Mozzarella and Chedder, wine soaked beef tenderloin, great bread and above average Sangria. It was a very good meal that was, with all I got, on the cheap side.
I had two meals that broke the bank, the first was a Sunday Brunch at M on the Bund. This is a 5 star restaurant that has been reviewed by the New York Times as well as other major publications. The food here was exceptional, though arguably not quite worth the price. That said, the cost in Shanghai was really low compared to major U.S. cities. Brunch was about $25 dollars which included a cocktail, coffee and three courses. I have no doubt that a comparable meal in New York or Chicago would have pushed $100. The best part of the meal though, was not the food, nor the service (very attentive for China) but instead the view...which is probably about 1/2 of the cost of the meal. The table that I was at overlooked the entire Bund as well as the Pudong area of town. This made for a fantastic contrast of the new Shanghai and the old colonial influence in Shanghai. The Bund is comprised of classic, European architecture that has been very well preserved. The building that line the river are the former homes of banks, the Shanghai stock market, trading companies, shipping companies, pretty much where all money in Shanghai used to go through. Today these buildings have been turned into 5 star restaurants, upscale retail and still an occasional bank. They are lit up at night which makes for a very impressive sight. Wandering around the park that lies in front of the Bund in the evening is one of my favorite things to do in Shanghai. The other side of the river is about as architecturally different from the Bund as you can get. The skyline in Pudong (the recently developed Commercial center of Shanghai) is something straight out of science fiction. The building all stretch skyward with unique design. The most recognizable building is the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, a tall tower decorated by three large globes that shine Purple and Pink in the sun. Some call this an eyesore, which I suppose it kind of is, but it is a unique building that helps make Shanghai the city that it is. There countless other skyscrapers in Pudong, my favorite being the Jin Mao tower. The food at M on the Bund was excellent, but what really made this meal memorable was the view. The experience of eating here is totally worth the cost, something that I would recommend to anyone spending a weekend in Shanghai.
My favorite Pudong skyscraper, the Jin Mao building was the sight of the second break the bank dining excursion. The Jin Mao tower is home to the Hyatt who occupies the 54th floor to the 87th floor. On the 87th floor lies Cloud 9, the tallest bar in the world. I went at night to have a drink here, just to say that I had been to the highest bar in the world. The views that I were rewarded with, I feel, are unmatched anywhere in the world. I strongly believe that there is no other skyline in the world as impressive as Shanghai's. There is the mix between old and new, a mix between radical designs and traditional skyscrapers but most of all there is an astonishing number of tall buildings. From Cloud 9 the view stretches in every direction, with countless buildings stretched as far as the eye can see. I was rewarded with an amazingly clear night which made the view even more spectacular. For anyone that has been on top of the Sear's Tower or John Hancock building and been impressed, the view of Shanghai's skyline made Chicago's look shockingly bland and unimpressive. The drinks at Cloud 9 were excellent, but pricey. That said, I would have paid double just for the view.
There were a few things that I wanted to have in Shanghai that I did not get around to sampling, but there will always be another chance. The food on this trip made the weekend very memorable. If anyone is planning a trip to China let me know and I will be more than happy to share some recommendations, give directions to great restaurant and serve as a general culinary advisor if you are interested.
5.26.2007
5.22.2007
Shanghai...
is still my favorite place in China. I know that I just got back from a great trip to Xi'an but I had the chance to go to Shanghai this weekend and I gladly took it. The tone of the trip was quite a bit different than the one to Xi'an, but in almost every way I prefer Shanghai to any other place in China.
I spent a lot of time in Shanghai three years ago. There was something comforting, like I was returning home to my city from the moment I stepped off of the train until I left. I only had four days in the city, but I fit almost everything that I wanted to see into that time. I was able to experience great food, spectacular sights, good shopping, a University visit, great pictures and very tired legs. As with Xi'an, my stories will last three or four entries.
Travel in China is so much better when everyone in the nation is not trying to get somewhere on the same weekend. The crowds were significantly smaller this weekend compared to May holiday. It is amazing how much more enjoyable this makes travel. For the trip to Shanghai I was able to get a Sleeper car, in my mind one of my favorite ways to travel here or anywhere else. The fact that a journey is a process is sometimes a great experience. To board a train with music, a good book and the ability to stretch out is something that is great...maybe my favorite way to travel, certainly much better than standing on a train for 12 hours.
I arrived rested and ready to attack "my city". The city of Shanghai has more people than Beijing does, but it covers much less land area than Beijing. This makes for a more crowded place, a more vertical city as well as a city with potentially way more transportation headaches. While neither city is easy to move around in, I really did not find Shanghai to be any more difficult to move around in than Beijing. There is a ridiculous amount of traffic in each city with more being added each day. I stepped off of the train and made my way to the subway where it soon became evident just how many people are in the city. It was about 7:00 in the morning and I barely fit onto the subway with my big backpack there were so many people crammed into the car. Once I got out of the subway I was greeted by an amazing sight, empty streets (more or less) and a calm in the city just waking up. Chinese people as a whole are early risers; construction really does not stop here and the workday begins early for even professionals. I got off of the subway near Nanjing Lu, the major shopping street in Shanghai. This street is normally filled with tourists, sales people, panhandlers and every other type of person, but at 7:00 in the morning, there was not really anyone out yet...or at least not as many as are typically there. The people that were there included elderly men and women practicing tai chi, martial arts, fan dancing, tango and just enjoying the morning, before the crowds arrived. While I made my way closer to the Bund, the famous waterfront area in Shanghai I recalled fondly all the other times I spent walking down the streets of Shanghai. At the same time, it was amazing to reflect on just how much I have changed in these last three years, all of the things I have accomplished in that time and how much my perception of China has changed.
On the Bund I found more of the same, but this time the practicers of tai chi, fan dancing and the like were doing it against the backdrop of the most impressive skyline in the world. There is just nothing like seeing Shanghai for the first time. Much has been written about this place, and even with all the hyperbole and superlatives used to describe the city it is still able to amaze and delight when you are able to finally rest your eyes on the magnificent. The skyline has ultra modern aspects alongside classic architecture, most of it very well designed. The city architecture represents Shanghai so well, the city in transition, at the edge of the next century but still holding onto its historical importance. While I could never forget this city, the experience this weekend showed me once again why I loved it so much and revealed to me the need I have to call this city home once again. I have found a lot to love about Beijing, but there is nothing in Beijing that can replace the energy and excitment that Shanghai has. There is no city comparable that I have ever been to, no city that combines the classic with modern, luxury with frugality, serenity with a torrid pace of change; these contradictions make for a place where there are endless opportunities, a place that is exciting just to be in.
There will be many more tales from my trip to come. If it is not already totally obvious, I have re-caught the Shanghai bug. There is no doubt that I will be living here again in the future. I am still waiting to hear if I will be back at Huijia when I return this winter, but if not, I may look for jobs in Shanghai and stay with friends in Beijing during the Olympics. Time will tell...there are always reason for decision and I have little doubt that the decision to live in Beijing was the right one to make, I just really miss my city again.
I spent a lot of time in Shanghai three years ago. There was something comforting, like I was returning home to my city from the moment I stepped off of the train until I left. I only had four days in the city, but I fit almost everything that I wanted to see into that time. I was able to experience great food, spectacular sights, good shopping, a University visit, great pictures and very tired legs. As with Xi'an, my stories will last three or four entries.
Travel in China is so much better when everyone in the nation is not trying to get somewhere on the same weekend. The crowds were significantly smaller this weekend compared to May holiday. It is amazing how much more enjoyable this makes travel. For the trip to Shanghai I was able to get a Sleeper car, in my mind one of my favorite ways to travel here or anywhere else. The fact that a journey is a process is sometimes a great experience. To board a train with music, a good book and the ability to stretch out is something that is great...maybe my favorite way to travel, certainly much better than standing on a train for 12 hours.
I arrived rested and ready to attack "my city". The city of Shanghai has more people than Beijing does, but it covers much less land area than Beijing. This makes for a more crowded place, a more vertical city as well as a city with potentially way more transportation headaches. While neither city is easy to move around in, I really did not find Shanghai to be any more difficult to move around in than Beijing. There is a ridiculous amount of traffic in each city with more being added each day. I stepped off of the train and made my way to the subway where it soon became evident just how many people are in the city. It was about 7:00 in the morning and I barely fit onto the subway with my big backpack there were so many people crammed into the car. Once I got out of the subway I was greeted by an amazing sight, empty streets (more or less) and a calm in the city just waking up. Chinese people as a whole are early risers; construction really does not stop here and the workday begins early for even professionals. I got off of the subway near Nanjing Lu, the major shopping street in Shanghai. This street is normally filled with tourists, sales people, panhandlers and every other type of person, but at 7:00 in the morning, there was not really anyone out yet...or at least not as many as are typically there. The people that were there included elderly men and women practicing tai chi, martial arts, fan dancing, tango and just enjoying the morning, before the crowds arrived. While I made my way closer to the Bund, the famous waterfront area in Shanghai I recalled fondly all the other times I spent walking down the streets of Shanghai. At the same time, it was amazing to reflect on just how much I have changed in these last three years, all of the things I have accomplished in that time and how much my perception of China has changed.
On the Bund I found more of the same, but this time the practicers of tai chi, fan dancing and the like were doing it against the backdrop of the most impressive skyline in the world. There is just nothing like seeing Shanghai for the first time. Much has been written about this place, and even with all the hyperbole and superlatives used to describe the city it is still able to amaze and delight when you are able to finally rest your eyes on the magnificent. The skyline has ultra modern aspects alongside classic architecture, most of it very well designed. The city architecture represents Shanghai so well, the city in transition, at the edge of the next century but still holding onto its historical importance. While I could never forget this city, the experience this weekend showed me once again why I loved it so much and revealed to me the need I have to call this city home once again. I have found a lot to love about Beijing, but there is nothing in Beijing that can replace the energy and excitment that Shanghai has. There is no city comparable that I have ever been to, no city that combines the classic with modern, luxury with frugality, serenity with a torrid pace of change; these contradictions make for a place where there are endless opportunities, a place that is exciting just to be in.
There will be many more tales from my trip to come. If it is not already totally obvious, I have re-caught the Shanghai bug. There is no doubt that I will be living here again in the future. I am still waiting to hear if I will be back at Huijia when I return this winter, but if not, I may look for jobs in Shanghai and stay with friends in Beijing during the Olympics. Time will tell...there are always reason for decision and I have little doubt that the decision to live in Beijing was the right one to make, I just really miss my city again.
5.14.2007
People all over the world
This is my third and final installment from my trip to Xi’an. This trip served as a good reminder for me that I need to get out and explore this country. I am in the process of planning more trips before I return home.
I have written before about the celebrity status that I have in China simply because I am tall and white. This was really demonstrated in Xi’an. Over the holidays many people throughout China travel to the larger cities. The people that live in Beijing and other large cities are, for the most part, used to seeing white people wandering throughout the city. In smaller cities though, there are still very few foreigners. Growing up in the U.S. I was accustomed, from a very young age to seeing all sorts of ethnicities. Our cities are filled with African-Americans, Orientals, various European Descent and Hispanics. Here in China it is a relatively recent development that Chinese people have had extensive exposure to non-Han Chinese. This causes many heads to turn when white people enter public spaces, especially someone as tall as I am.
There are times when this extra attention is not appreciated, times when I just want to go through my day anonymously, but there are other times where this attention results in a fantastic experience, one that I am not sure if I could find elsewhere. The fact that I am white means that everyone assumes that I know English, there has been many times where a random person starts a conversation with me for no other reason that to practice their English. I am trying my best to do the same with Chinese people to practice my Mandarin, but I still do not feel like I have enough vocabulary to do this much.
One of the highlights of the trip to Xi’an was when a young girl started to look at Traci and I while we were in a small hole-in-a-wall restaurant near Hua Shan. We waved at her and said ni hao which caused her to smile back. After a short while of this going back and forth, her Mom said to us she is learning English, she loves you! We invited her over to our table where she quizzed us on some Chinese vocabulary and we talked to her about English. Her Mom came over to help facilitate the conversation and to ask us some other questions about us. Through our conversation, she let us know that there was already someone in her class that had her English name, she wondered if we could give her a new English name. Traci and I settled on Emily which she proceeded to repeat throughout the remainder of her stay in the restaurant.
The forwardness of the Chinese is sometimes little much to handle, there are times when I wish that a little more subtlety and restraint would be used, but there are also times where the forwardness results in wonderful experiences, ones that will stick with me for the remainder of my life.
I have written before about the celebrity status that I have in China simply because I am tall and white. This was really demonstrated in Xi’an. Over the holidays many people throughout China travel to the larger cities. The people that live in Beijing and other large cities are, for the most part, used to seeing white people wandering throughout the city. In smaller cities though, there are still very few foreigners. Growing up in the U.S. I was accustomed, from a very young age to seeing all sorts of ethnicities. Our cities are filled with African-Americans, Orientals, various European Descent and Hispanics. Here in China it is a relatively recent development that Chinese people have had extensive exposure to non-Han Chinese. This causes many heads to turn when white people enter public spaces, especially someone as tall as I am.
There are times when this extra attention is not appreciated, times when I just want to go through my day anonymously, but there are other times where this attention results in a fantastic experience, one that I am not sure if I could find elsewhere. The fact that I am white means that everyone assumes that I know English, there has been many times where a random person starts a conversation with me for no other reason that to practice their English. I am trying my best to do the same with Chinese people to practice my Mandarin, but I still do not feel like I have enough vocabulary to do this much.
One of the highlights of the trip to Xi’an was when a young girl started to look at Traci and I while we were in a small hole-in-a-wall restaurant near Hua Shan. We waved at her and said ni hao which caused her to smile back. After a short while of this going back and forth, her Mom said to us she is learning English, she loves you! We invited her over to our table where she quizzed us on some Chinese vocabulary and we talked to her about English. Her Mom came over to help facilitate the conversation and to ask us some other questions about us. Through our conversation, she let us know that there was already someone in her class that had her English name, she wondered if we could give her a new English name. Traci and I settled on Emily which she proceeded to repeat throughout the remainder of her stay in the restaurant.
The forwardness of the Chinese is sometimes little much to handle, there are times when I wish that a little more subtlety and restraint would be used, but there are also times where the forwardness results in wonderful experiences, ones that will stick with me for the remainder of my life.
5.10.2007
12 Hours...
is not really that much time at all. A blip in the grand scheme of time. That said, 12 hours pent standing on a train is an eternity. When we arrived in Xi'an we promptly went to the train ticket sales. We were not able to purchase return tickets in Beijing as they do not go on sale until 4 days in advance of departure, and then only from the departing city. When we finally got to the counter we were informed that the only tickets remaining on any of the three possible departure days were standing room only. We had kind of made up our minds that we would take whatever we got so with smiles on our faces, we embraced the knowledge that we would have to stand for 12 hours. We had hoped to secure a seat in the dining car when we got on the train or even perhaps get an upgrade.
To ensure that we were near the front of the line we arrived early at the train station. We were 20th in line or so and hoped that we would be able to get our name on the upgrade list. Crowds in China do not behave as we in the west expect crowds to. Crowds, for the most part do not follow lines, there is a lot of pushing and basic human dignity is pretty much ignored...a description which may be too civil for what actually goes on. As time went on and we stood (more standing) in line it became clear that there would be no upgrades. There were just too many people.
When the gates were open we were pushed (stampeded) through the opening and in the direction of the train. We found our car and staked out a spot. As more and more people came onto the train we were pushed more and more towards the back of the train. We had decided to wait a few hours to get good and tired before making our way towards the dining car. Finally, after about three hours of standing as well as constantly being pushed past by people making their way to the bathroom we felt it was time to see what luck we would find in the dining car. We were fortunate the a drink cart was making its way towards our car at this time. Our space to stand was about as far to the rear of the train as you could go. 10 people give or take were all that seperated us from the end of the train. When the drink cart began the long journey back to the dining car, Traci and I followed closely behind, allowing the cart to force people to stand out fo the aisle as we passed. On the way through the four cars between us and the dining car we were stared at and in one case even laughed at (a young by who was quickly yelled at by his mother). We felt like we were totally on display...which we were. Upon arrival to the dining car we followed the drink cart into the car where we were soon yelled at and told to get out. It seems as though all of the seats had been taken long ago and no one else was allowed into the car. We still had about 9 hours to go on our journey. There was no way that we were going to try and make the trip back to our spot so instead we just chose to stay right next to the dining car. We spent the next 9 hours leaning against the door, crouching down to rest our legs and taking turns sitting and sleeping the approximately three square feet of space that we had for the two of us. As the night went on it got colder and colder in the accordian-like seperation between cars that served as our home for the night.
When we finally got back to Beijing we were happy to be out of the car. Our legs were tired and cramped, we were exhausted and grouchy. When I got back to my room I fell into bed, fell asleep for 6 hours woke up to eat something and then went back to bed until the next morning, about 14 hours later. I felt that the sleep was well deserved. The lesson that I came away from the standing room only experience is that travel in China over the May holiday is probably not the best idea I have ever had. That said, even with the negative travel experience home it was a great trip, one that I would take all over again.
To ensure that we were near the front of the line we arrived early at the train station. We were 20th in line or so and hoped that we would be able to get our name on the upgrade list. Crowds in China do not behave as we in the west expect crowds to. Crowds, for the most part do not follow lines, there is a lot of pushing and basic human dignity is pretty much ignored...a description which may be too civil for what actually goes on. As time went on and we stood (more standing) in line it became clear that there would be no upgrades. There were just too many people.
When the gates were open we were pushed (stampeded) through the opening and in the direction of the train. We found our car and staked out a spot. As more and more people came onto the train we were pushed more and more towards the back of the train. We had decided to wait a few hours to get good and tired before making our way towards the dining car. Finally, after about three hours of standing as well as constantly being pushed past by people making their way to the bathroom we felt it was time to see what luck we would find in the dining car. We were fortunate the a drink cart was making its way towards our car at this time. Our space to stand was about as far to the rear of the train as you could go. 10 people give or take were all that seperated us from the end of the train. When the drink cart began the long journey back to the dining car, Traci and I followed closely behind, allowing the cart to force people to stand out fo the aisle as we passed. On the way through the four cars between us and the dining car we were stared at and in one case even laughed at (a young by who was quickly yelled at by his mother). We felt like we were totally on display...which we were. Upon arrival to the dining car we followed the drink cart into the car where we were soon yelled at and told to get out. It seems as though all of the seats had been taken long ago and no one else was allowed into the car. We still had about 9 hours to go on our journey. There was no way that we were going to try and make the trip back to our spot so instead we just chose to stay right next to the dining car. We spent the next 9 hours leaning against the door, crouching down to rest our legs and taking turns sitting and sleeping the approximately three square feet of space that we had for the two of us. As the night went on it got colder and colder in the accordian-like seperation between cars that served as our home for the night.
When we finally got back to Beijing we were happy to be out of the car. Our legs were tired and cramped, we were exhausted and grouchy. When I got back to my room I fell into bed, fell asleep for 6 hours woke up to eat something and then went back to bed until the next morning, about 14 hours later. I felt that the sleep was well deserved. The lesson that I came away from the standing room only experience is that travel in China over the May holiday is probably not the best idea I have ever had. That said, even with the negative travel experience home it was a great trip, one that I would take all over again.
5.07.2007
Xi'an Part 1
I have returned from Spring Break, or rather May Holiday as it is known here. It is hard to believe that I have just under two months remaining in my time here...at least the first installment of my time here. Now that the May Holiday trip was successfully completed, it is time to start making plans on a few weekend trips as well as my travel arrangements home. I start classes again tomorrow. I am ready for the kids again, I just hope that they are ready for me. They have had a long time off and if they are anything like I was in high school, it will be hard for them to concentrate on school tomorrow.
This will be the first of a few posts about my trip to Xi'an. The first time I was in China, I had the privelege to go all over the country, experiencing a new place at least one time each week. This stay has been in stark contrast to last time, with my entire experience occuring in Beijing Province, at least until the trip to Xi'an. After the past week I know that I am going to need to make more of an effort to explore the remainder of this country. With the schedule that I have, I need to take some weekend trips to places that I have not yet seen in China. There is just so much out there, so many interesting places, unique people and experiences just waiting to happen.
Needless to say, the trip was a huge success. I saw a ton of great places, met many new people, had great food, and walked away in one piece...barely. More about htat later, for now, just a rundown of the places I saw.
We got to Xi'an in the morning on Wednesday. We had hard sleeper train tickets for the trip there, which provided a comfortable trip, leaving us refreshed and ready to face the new city. We purchased return train tickets...more on this later, but this was my big fear of the trip. The Train system in China is such that you can only purchase tickets five days in advance, and then only from the city you are departing from. I was worried that we would not be able to get home, leaving us stranded in Xi'an until the May holiday rush passed. With our tickets in hand, we proceeded to our hostel to store our luggage and take a quick shower to freshen up. We were thrilled to find our hostel in a great location, very clean, cheap and with a ton to do. It had a great restaurant, a pool table, internet access, comfortable furniture (except for the beds...but they were cheap so who cares) and a very friendly staff. If anyone is visiting Xi'an I highly recommend the Bell Tower Hostel for your stay. The location alone is worth the cost. Following our check-in we visited the Bell Tower and the Drum Tower before making hte first of many trips to the Muslim Quarter.
The Drum and Bell Tower were ok, but not highlights of the trip. The Muslim Quarter, on the other hand, was AWESOME! In this neighborhood we found great shopping, interesting sights and the best Xinxiang food we have found here in China. My new favorite dish is Yang Rou Paomo, a lamb stock based soup that featured spices, veggies, lamb and small pieces of sweet bread. It was fantastic! We also had yang rou chuan which is a favorite here, but was done very well in Xi'an. We washed these meals down with cheap cold beer while sitting outside watching the streams of people go by...or rather were watched by the streams of people going by since it was so odd to see foreignors outside enjoying the food.
Following this first stop in the Muslim Quarter, we went back to the Train Station to catch a bus to Hua Shan. This is one of the best known mountains in China, located about 130 km outside of Xi'an. We spent the night in a seedy, overpriced, dirty, horrible, (but safe Mom), hotel at the town near the base of the Mountain. We got up early Thursday Morning to start the climb up the Mountain. We wanted an early start since it would be crowded during May holiday, the bus service only ran so long back to Xi'an and we were not sure just how long the climb would take. We were on the Mountain by 6:30 AM which was a good thing, since this climb was epic. There were three ways to get to the top, a climb up a ton of stairs over 4 km or so, a more traditional route of 4 easy km followed by 2 very challenging km or a cable car. We elected to do the stairs over 4km, or rather we elected not to do the cable car, the cheaters way. A few steps in and we were already regretting that decision. It was a long grueling hike that we estimate consisted of at least 20,000 stairs, probably more. We tried to look online to find a verifieable number, but no one seems to know just how many steps it is from the bottom to the top. Needless to say, it was a very long way. The climb to where the cable car let off was about 2.5-3 hours, the climb to and from the peak from the cable car another 3-4 hours and the descent took a bit over 3 hours. All said, we were climbing more or less constantly for about 10 hours. The views that this journey provided were well worth it. I have been fortunate to visit a number of spectacular vista's in my life, the peak of Hua Shan lies toe to toe with all the other members of this list. I am sitting here writing this four days after the climb and my legs are still very tight. I went for a massage today which helped some. There have been times when I have wanted a massage, but this was one of the few times when I felt like I really needed a massage. Stairs are still a challenge physically and mentally. Images of the steep staircases still come to mind when I am facing the bottom of a staircase. Following our descent we climbed onto the bus back to Xi'an where we quickly fell asleep until we arrived back in Xi'an. After cleaning up and getting settled in the hostel we made our way to teh Big Goose Pagoda to see a spectacular light show. There were tons of people that were out for the show, lining the fountain areas. It was a variation of the Musical Fountains in Grand Haven, MI, but perhaps because of the setting it was a far more impressive show. Until the fountains started, we felt like we were the show as much as the setting was. Many Chinese people stopped to chat with the foreigners, or even just to look at us. After the show it was back to the Muslim Quarter for more of our favorite food.
Friday we journeyed to the Terra Cotta Warriors, one of the major reasons for anyone's trips to Xi'an. While cool, this was probably the most dissapointing part of the trip. All of the warriors that are on display have been reconditioned, making for a somewhat less than authentic experience. It was still worthwhile, just not as cool as it could have been. I have now said that I have done it, it was worth it, but I have no need to repeat it, unlike Hua Shan which, even in pain, I would do again tomorrow if I could. That night we, you guessed it, hit up the Muslim Quarter for more good food, followed by a chat with some fellow travellers in the hostel and a late bed. The next morning, our last in Xi'an was spent on the City Wall, some last minute shopping in the Muslim Quarter and a little "western" shopping before headed back to the hostel to refresh ourselves before the journey home.
It was a great time in a beautiful city. There was more to see than we had time for, which in some ways is a good length of a trip. It is always better to be left wanting more than to feel like you have too much time in a place. Xi'an was a great time and recommended to anyone travelling through China, just not for the sites that are most famous. The top three sites would be Hua Shan, the Muslim Quarter and the light show at the Big Goose Pagoda in that order. The warriors of course need to be seen, just not for very long.
This will be the first of a few posts about my trip to Xi'an. The first time I was in China, I had the privelege to go all over the country, experiencing a new place at least one time each week. This stay has been in stark contrast to last time, with my entire experience occuring in Beijing Province, at least until the trip to Xi'an. After the past week I know that I am going to need to make more of an effort to explore the remainder of this country. With the schedule that I have, I need to take some weekend trips to places that I have not yet seen in China. There is just so much out there, so many interesting places, unique people and experiences just waiting to happen.
Needless to say, the trip was a huge success. I saw a ton of great places, met many new people, had great food, and walked away in one piece...barely. More about htat later, for now, just a rundown of the places I saw.
We got to Xi'an in the morning on Wednesday. We had hard sleeper train tickets for the trip there, which provided a comfortable trip, leaving us refreshed and ready to face the new city. We purchased return train tickets...more on this later, but this was my big fear of the trip. The Train system in China is such that you can only purchase tickets five days in advance, and then only from the city you are departing from. I was worried that we would not be able to get home, leaving us stranded in Xi'an until the May holiday rush passed. With our tickets in hand, we proceeded to our hostel to store our luggage and take a quick shower to freshen up. We were thrilled to find our hostel in a great location, very clean, cheap and with a ton to do. It had a great restaurant, a pool table, internet access, comfortable furniture (except for the beds...but they were cheap so who cares) and a very friendly staff. If anyone is visiting Xi'an I highly recommend the Bell Tower Hostel for your stay. The location alone is worth the cost. Following our check-in we visited the Bell Tower and the Drum Tower before making hte first of many trips to the Muslim Quarter.
The Drum and Bell Tower were ok, but not highlights of the trip. The Muslim Quarter, on the other hand, was AWESOME! In this neighborhood we found great shopping, interesting sights and the best Xinxiang food we have found here in China. My new favorite dish is Yang Rou Paomo, a lamb stock based soup that featured spices, veggies, lamb and small pieces of sweet bread. It was fantastic! We also had yang rou chuan which is a favorite here, but was done very well in Xi'an. We washed these meals down with cheap cold beer while sitting outside watching the streams of people go by...or rather were watched by the streams of people going by since it was so odd to see foreignors outside enjoying the food.
Following this first stop in the Muslim Quarter, we went back to the Train Station to catch a bus to Hua Shan. This is one of the best known mountains in China, located about 130 km outside of Xi'an. We spent the night in a seedy, overpriced, dirty, horrible, (but safe Mom), hotel at the town near the base of the Mountain. We got up early Thursday Morning to start the climb up the Mountain. We wanted an early start since it would be crowded during May holiday, the bus service only ran so long back to Xi'an and we were not sure just how long the climb would take. We were on the Mountain by 6:30 AM which was a good thing, since this climb was epic. There were three ways to get to the top, a climb up a ton of stairs over 4 km or so, a more traditional route of 4 easy km followed by 2 very challenging km or a cable car. We elected to do the stairs over 4km, or rather we elected not to do the cable car, the cheaters way. A few steps in and we were already regretting that decision. It was a long grueling hike that we estimate consisted of at least 20,000 stairs, probably more. We tried to look online to find a verifieable number, but no one seems to know just how many steps it is from the bottom to the top. Needless to say, it was a very long way. The climb to where the cable car let off was about 2.5-3 hours, the climb to and from the peak from the cable car another 3-4 hours and the descent took a bit over 3 hours. All said, we were climbing more or less constantly for about 10 hours. The views that this journey provided were well worth it. I have been fortunate to visit a number of spectacular vista's in my life, the peak of Hua Shan lies toe to toe with all the other members of this list. I am sitting here writing this four days after the climb and my legs are still very tight. I went for a massage today which helped some. There have been times when I have wanted a massage, but this was one of the few times when I felt like I really needed a massage. Stairs are still a challenge physically and mentally. Images of the steep staircases still come to mind when I am facing the bottom of a staircase. Following our descent we climbed onto the bus back to Xi'an where we quickly fell asleep until we arrived back in Xi'an. After cleaning up and getting settled in the hostel we made our way to teh Big Goose Pagoda to see a spectacular light show. There were tons of people that were out for the show, lining the fountain areas. It was a variation of the Musical Fountains in Grand Haven, MI, but perhaps because of the setting it was a far more impressive show. Until the fountains started, we felt like we were the show as much as the setting was. Many Chinese people stopped to chat with the foreigners, or even just to look at us. After the show it was back to the Muslim Quarter for more of our favorite food.
Friday we journeyed to the Terra Cotta Warriors, one of the major reasons for anyone's trips to Xi'an. While cool, this was probably the most dissapointing part of the trip. All of the warriors that are on display have been reconditioned, making for a somewhat less than authentic experience. It was still worthwhile, just not as cool as it could have been. I have now said that I have done it, it was worth it, but I have no need to repeat it, unlike Hua Shan which, even in pain, I would do again tomorrow if I could. That night we, you guessed it, hit up the Muslim Quarter for more good food, followed by a chat with some fellow travellers in the hostel and a late bed. The next morning, our last in Xi'an was spent on the City Wall, some last minute shopping in the Muslim Quarter and a little "western" shopping before headed back to the hostel to refresh ourselves before the journey home.
It was a great time in a beautiful city. There was more to see than we had time for, which in some ways is a good length of a trip. It is always better to be left wanting more than to feel like you have too much time in a place. Xi'an was a great time and recommended to anyone travelling through China, just not for the sites that are most famous. The top three sites would be Hua Shan, the Muslim Quarter and the light show at the Big Goose Pagoda in that order. The warriors of course need to be seen, just not for very long.
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