9.01.2008

Olympic Reflections

It is truly remarkable how soon a city goes back to “normal” after a major event like the Olympics. Just a week ago the entire world was getting ready for the last events, the last medals and of course the Closing Ceremonies. Today, it feels like it was a long, long time ago when Beijing was at the center of the world’s attention.

I had an amazing time at the Olympics, and want to attend every four years (every two years?). I do not, however, want to attend as a resident of the host city. I want to be a tourist. During these last two weeks I did not like the feeling of being mistaken as a tourist over and over again. I know this city very well, speak a little of the language but still was lumped into the same category as the visitors that were constantly lost, usually (somewhat) offensive and spoke no Mandarin. I guess at some level I will always be a tourist in foreign countries, but I guess in my arrogance I think of myself as above the fray. One of the low points came when dealing with an American visitor (it is always the American’s isn’t it?). I was waiting for this couple to pay for their cab so I could take it back to my apartment. The gentleman tipped the cab driver (a very unnecessary and not understood practice here). I said to the American, don’t do that, you will ruin it for the rest of us. He responded…son, don’t tell me what to do. I do as I please. I wonder why people like that ever leave their homes is they are going to travel to the rest of the world with arrogance and determination to only look at the world through your own culture’s perspective. But alas, that is not really a story about the Olympics.

My experience was highlighted by great action on the field (written about in my last two posts) but also great experiences outside of the competitions I was fortunate enough to witness. One of the highlights was the very (at times overly) helpful volunteers that were present at every venue, making sure that each and every person had a great time at the Olympics. For me, the volunteers really went above and beyond their call of duty while watching the Brazil and Argentina match. Ed and I arrived there two hours early to make sure that we would see every single aspect of the event. Our seats were in a section where the rows were pretty close together. Because there was no one seated around us that early, I put my feat over the row of seats in front of me since I had very little leg room. Eventually a volunteer came over and asked me to remove my feet. I complied, but explained to her that I did not have enough leg room in these seats. After a few minutes I sat on the back of my seat with my feet on the ground. She again came over but this time, instead of asking me to change how I was sitting, she instead offered an alternate seat. Turns out there were a few seats reserved for VIP’s which apparently we qualified as. The seats were much better and the leg room was more than sufficient. This small gesture made a lasting impact on me, and made sure that I came out of the entire Olympic experience with a positive impression.

One of my favorite places to be during the two weeks of festivities was on the Olympic Green. Unfortunately, the only way to get there was to have a ticket, but I had four events on the green which allowed me sufficient time to explore all of the nooks and crannies of this massive space. The venues and their design were by far the best aspects, but there was also sponsor pavilions, souvenir tents, food and many other things to while away an afternoon. This was the height of activity, though I feel that it would have been an even better atmosphere had the public been allowed here without tickets. It would have been a mass of people adding to the excitement and atmosphere.

Beijing did an incredible job as hosts, making sure that their best face was put forward for the world. In the days since the close, the weather has been a bit worse, the counterfeit goods have returned to the streets and there is a bit less willingness to help on the streets. While I do not really think that the weather is a result of leniency by officials, the others certainly are. Beijing was a good host. There are numerous issues that have been well documented about China as a host country, their policies and lack of freedoms. China is a nearly impossible place to fully understand. On top of that, there are other, better writers who have spent plenty of ink on these issues so I am choosing not to address them here. I do, however, feel the need to mention that the air has been good (compared to last year) this year, even before the games. Not great, but for Beijing and China it has been good. In addition, Beijing Taxi drivers are not as directionally challenged as the American (Western?) media has made them out to be. I have, at times, felt that the coverage China has received has been unfair and un-insightful, choosing to poke at the (very) easy target of China. There are many things that are wrong in this country, but then again there are few countries that do not have issues. I am biased, I love this country and her people, even with all of the flaws. My time here has been wonderful. Even though it will soon come to an end, I will leave with very few bad memories. The Olympics were a fitting way to end my time here, a massive party that the whole world attended, a showcase for what China has achieved and a preview of what it plans to achieve in the coming years.