So far, my time here has been dominated by sports. I suppose that in an Olympic year this should not be so surprising, but I did not expect sports to take such an overwhelming presence in my life here. Last entry you read about my involvement with the Olympics. This has continued, and I am still overjoyed to know that I have a small role in the presentation of the upcoming Olympics.
Even outside of this, I have spent a lot of time watching sports. I have been here for 5 weekends and already have witnessed three sports events here. The 1st weekend I was here I attended one of the 1st events that the “Water Cube” hosted. This is the venue for the Olympic Aquatic events. Beijing is hosting a series of test events in each of the Olympic Venues, a series called Good Luck Beijing. The World Cup of Diving was held in the Water Cube back in Mid-February. This was my only chance to see the inside of the cube before the Olympics, but tickets were sold out. Trying my luck, I showed up the morning of the competition, hoping to find a ticket for sale. I was shocked at just how many people were selling their tickets, but at a pretty steep mark up. It was worth every penny. The competition was exciting, but the real star was the venue. This is a massive, beautiful pool that will be a showcase for the games. The architecture is unique and stunning. The inside is light and a big, a great place for a Swim Meet. It holds a ton of spectators, far more than any permanent pool in the United States does.
Two weekends ago, the Los Angeles Dodgers and San Diego Padres played two spring training games in Beijing. A large group of teachers went to watch the first Major League Baseball games in China. It was ok at best. The environment and games were less than exciting, the stadium was a nice place, but nothing compared to the Major League Stadiums back home. It felt like a minor league game, especially as we were surrounded by people that did not really understand the game. The stadium ran out of food, people cheered for regular plays and the atmosphere was one of more confusion than excitement. A fun experience, but not one that I need to repeat.
Finally, last weekend I went to the Good Luck Beijing Water Polo matches. These were the best in terms of excitement of the three I have seen so far and made me really miss coaching that sport back home. The level of play was high, the venue was nice (different than the Water Cube) and the fans were interested, if not wholly knowledgeable. It was at these matches that I had a conversation with an Australian that shared a great quotation with me about the upcoming Games. The Australian are sport crazy which is why they enjoyed hosting the Sydney Games in 2000, Greece loved to host the Athens Games in 2004 since they enjoyed the history that goes along with being the original host, China’s Beijing Games will also be successful and the people will enjoy themselves since they are being told to. This is the perfect encapsulation of the Chinese attitude towards this event. There is excitement, but it is almost a forced excitement, people are caring about things that had never entered their minds before. They are being told that they will cheer loud, told that they will warmly welcome the world and told that the games will be a success. With this direction, there is really no doubt in their minds that this will be the case.
3.26.2008
3.16.2008
Olympic Contribution and Life in China
So I realize that I have not updates in a while. I cannot believe that I have already been in China for almost a Month. The transition from home to China was essentially seemless this time. I went from a life in the U.S. to a life in China with no real transition period in between.
In the month I have been here I have already moved into a second apartment in the city, gone to twice weekly Chinese lessons, a weekly english tutoring appointment, a little thing called classes, Sunday morning workouts with a Master’s swim team and even taught a few classes every week. I love the life here and feel like my schedule is full (in a good way) this semester in ways that it was not last year. I am spending a much greater portion of my time doing things, experiencing China than last year when I had so much free time that a lot of my time was spent watching movies and browsing the internet. This year I am even feel a greater connection to my students, which is due in great part to 1.) the fact that I am returning and many of my students already know me and 2.) my students see me around campus a lot more than they did last year.
My classes have had their share of ups and downs. There are those classes that I walk out of thinking “those kids did not understand a single word that came out of my mouth” and those classes which I am simply amazed at the level of questions that the kids ask, showing without a doubt that they are interested in my lecture and are getting what I wanted them to get out of the lesson. As a very general rule, I find myself enjoying my 7th grade classes more than my 8th grade classes, though there of course are exceptions. I think that this may be due to the fact that the 7th grade students are ordered by their level of English Language, with all of the “good” English speakers in the same classroom. This is something that the administration of the school simply forgot to do for the 8th graders.
That is, in short, what classes and life have been filled with over the last few weeks. I am getting ready to give my 1st test, which last year, caused me a lot of frustration with the scored that the kids received. Hopefully this year, things will be better.
Life outside of the classroom has been good, but busy. The highlight of my 1st month back was this past Wednesday, during my English Tutoring appointment with my friend Liao. Liao Yuan works for BOCOG, the Beijing Organizing Committee of the Olympic Games. Normally during our meeting we just talk, working on basic conversational English. This past Wednesday, however, she had work for me to do. I can now claim to have made a significant contribution to the Beijing Olympics. I am more than a fan, I have actually worked for the Organizing Committee. I spent our meeting editing the announcements that will be made in English over the PA system at the Softball Venue, Fengtai Softball Stadium. The announcements had been translated from Chinese to English by University students and a lot of the language was directly translated, making sense, but not sounding right to an English ear. I have been walking around in a great mood since this meeting, knowing that the announcements that are read during the Olympics were shaped, in part by me. Needless to say, for as big of an Olympic fan I am, this is a huge honor and a pretty big deal for me.
Greeting from Beijing,
Gao Tian
In the month I have been here I have already moved into a second apartment in the city, gone to twice weekly Chinese lessons, a weekly english tutoring appointment, a little thing called classes, Sunday morning workouts with a Master’s swim team and even taught a few classes every week. I love the life here and feel like my schedule is full (in a good way) this semester in ways that it was not last year. I am spending a much greater portion of my time doing things, experiencing China than last year when I had so much free time that a lot of my time was spent watching movies and browsing the internet. This year I am even feel a greater connection to my students, which is due in great part to 1.) the fact that I am returning and many of my students already know me and 2.) my students see me around campus a lot more than they did last year.
My classes have had their share of ups and downs. There are those classes that I walk out of thinking “those kids did not understand a single word that came out of my mouth” and those classes which I am simply amazed at the level of questions that the kids ask, showing without a doubt that they are interested in my lecture and are getting what I wanted them to get out of the lesson. As a very general rule, I find myself enjoying my 7th grade classes more than my 8th grade classes, though there of course are exceptions. I think that this may be due to the fact that the 7th grade students are ordered by their level of English Language, with all of the “good” English speakers in the same classroom. This is something that the administration of the school simply forgot to do for the 8th graders.
That is, in short, what classes and life have been filled with over the last few weeks. I am getting ready to give my 1st test, which last year, caused me a lot of frustration with the scored that the kids received. Hopefully this year, things will be better.
Life outside of the classroom has been good, but busy. The highlight of my 1st month back was this past Wednesday, during my English Tutoring appointment with my friend Liao. Liao Yuan works for BOCOG, the Beijing Organizing Committee of the Olympic Games. Normally during our meeting we just talk, working on basic conversational English. This past Wednesday, however, she had work for me to do. I can now claim to have made a significant contribution to the Beijing Olympics. I am more than a fan, I have actually worked for the Organizing Committee. I spent our meeting editing the announcements that will be made in English over the PA system at the Softball Venue, Fengtai Softball Stadium. The announcements had been translated from Chinese to English by University students and a lot of the language was directly translated, making sense, but not sounding right to an English ear. I have been walking around in a great mood since this meeting, knowing that the announcements that are read during the Olympics were shaped, in part by me. Needless to say, for as big of an Olympic fan I am, this is a huge honor and a pretty big deal for me.
Greeting from Beijing,
Gao Tian
2.25.2008
Back in China
Well, it is that time of year again. As my good friend Nancy said, there are now 6 seasons to the year. Winter, Matt Leaves, Spring, Summer, Matt Returns and finally Fall. That will be the case again this year as I am once again in my “2nd Home” Beijing. The departure this time was much more low key, missing was the apprehension of what lies after, replaced instead by feeling of excitement and almost necessity. As the date of my flight drew closer I expected the feeling of nervousness to replace the excitement but I am please to say that it never really did.
I have now been in Beijing for a week and have found it nothing short of amazing the difference that a year makes. I feel so comfortable here, I am not “an old teacher” confident in the knowledge that I know where to find things, how to get things done and what being in front of a classroom means. I am able to show others good places to eat, what to do on the weekend (get out of Changping as quickly as possible…) and all the other things that go along with being experienced. Even my own social confidence is so much higher this year since I know that I can thrive here. It is just nice to be back. The weather has helped as well. We have even had some clear…really, truly clear blue skies. I know that it will not last but it has been nice while it has. I was able to see the mountains that ring the city from the city, something that I am not sure ever happened a year ago. I was also able to see from Dongzhimen to Xizhimen, across the city a pretty miraculous thing.
My time in Beijing has been spent getting ready for classes, rediscovering old favorites and making new friends. The one major highlight of my time here so far was Saturday morning when I made my way into Beijing to attend the FINA World Cup of Diving in the Olympic Swimming Venue, the water cube. This is a very impressive building that is among the two showcase venues for the Olympics. Photos will be posted at my flickr account soon that show the unique structure of the pool.
I hope that everyone that is reading this is doing well. I will write more later as I continue to experience a city that is getting ready to host the world. Please comment or write as the year goes on. I love to hear bits and pieces of what is happening on the other side of the world.
Gao Tian
I have now been in Beijing for a week and have found it nothing short of amazing the difference that a year makes. I feel so comfortable here, I am not “an old teacher” confident in the knowledge that I know where to find things, how to get things done and what being in front of a classroom means. I am able to show others good places to eat, what to do on the weekend (get out of Changping as quickly as possible…) and all the other things that go along with being experienced. Even my own social confidence is so much higher this year since I know that I can thrive here. It is just nice to be back. The weather has helped as well. We have even had some clear…really, truly clear blue skies. I know that it will not last but it has been nice while it has. I was able to see the mountains that ring the city from the city, something that I am not sure ever happened a year ago. I was also able to see from Dongzhimen to Xizhimen, across the city a pretty miraculous thing.
My time in Beijing has been spent getting ready for classes, rediscovering old favorites and making new friends. The one major highlight of my time here so far was Saturday morning when I made my way into Beijing to attend the FINA World Cup of Diving in the Olympic Swimming Venue, the water cube. This is a very impressive building that is among the two showcase venues for the Olympics. Photos will be posted at my flickr account soon that show the unique structure of the pool.
I hope that everyone that is reading this is doing well. I will write more later as I continue to experience a city that is getting ready to host the world. Please comment or write as the year goes on. I love to hear bits and pieces of what is happening on the other side of the world.
Gao Tian
12.31.2007
The Best Year Ever
Any period of time longer than say one hour will have its share of ups and downs. Even the best of days will have their negative moments, but I can say, that even with some major lows in 2007, this year was my best year ever. There were numerous highs that far outweighed the major lows, both of which, if you are willing to continue reading, I will tell you about.
If at the end of 2006 I was to guess which way 2007 was going to end up, it really could have gone either way. The move to China was such a major undertaking, a dramatic change from what I knew there was no way to know which way it would end up. I can say, without question, the move to China was one of the best things I have ever done. The move from my comfort zone challenged me to try new things, get comfortable in sometimes uncomfortable situations, make do with what I had available, meet new people, appreciate what I had in my life and generally take advantage of life’s opportunities, never being content with the status quo.
Elizabeth Gilbert, in her memoir "Eat, Pray, Love" talks about how each place, each person, can be encapsulated in one word. She claims that Rome's word is sex while the Vatican's word is power. I was challenged to find a word to describe myself, the word that I finally settled on was experience. I am not content to be shown a picture of a place, I want to be there, experiencing it for myself. This has never been more true than in 2007. Maybe it was luck, but I was able to experience more of the world in 2007 than ever before. My experiences in China were well documented here so I will not go into too many details, however, I will say that the friends I made and the experiences that I had were far better than anything I expected prior to departure. The number one highlight of the trip was living in Beijing, experiencing all that city has to offer. I now think of Beijing as my own, with at least some knowledge of some “hidden” places, off of the tourist track. The other standout moments of the trip came from my experiences outside of Beijing, the new places I visited in Shanghai, and the city of Xi’an. While the Terra Cotta Warriors were a bit of a disappointment, the food and people of Xi’an more than made up for that. I am looking forward to my return to Beijing, I am certain that this time will be at least as rewarding as my first time as an ex-pat, perhaps more so since I will have less of a learning curve as I again immerse myself in a foreign culture.
While my time in Beijing certainly made for a great year, what really set this year apart was what occurred after I left China. The trip home was more than I could have hoped for. The people I met, the experiences I had and the places I visited were beautiful and memorable. The trip home was not without it’s low points though. A month of travel by yourself can make you lonely no matter how many people you encounter. The friendships made while traveling are generally temporary ones, lasting just as long as your paths are crossed, typically for a day or two. The necessity to remake friends becomes a bit tedious after a few days, much less almost a month. That said, I know that my experiences would have been greatly altered if I was traveling with someone else. Whether this alteration would have been for good or bad no one will ever know. The other low point was that my grandmother, Lois Jasperse passed away while I was on my way back home. While I know that she was suffering from poor healthy, a death is never easy to deal with, not being in the same country removes you even further from the grieving process.
When I got back to the State's, the run of great experiences continued. Coaching this fall went extremely well, capped by a Second Place finish at State Meet. I was also named Michigan D2 Coach of the Year, a unexpected honor to cap a very successful year. The finish to this swim season was the absolutely perfect way to end that chapter of my life, however, it also showed me how much coaching means to me. The relationships that I have formed through coaching have rarely been matched in my other endeavors. In part because of the success at the end of the year, I will be back next year to coach FHC again. Maybe it is a bit of hubris, to come back and try to match the success that we had this year will take a huge effort, but an effort that I feel is worth it. The finish to 2007 is icing on the cake, showing me that, even if it was not clear to me before, all of the time that I have spent on deck coaching has been worth it.
The year was capped off with yet another trip, this time over Thanksgiving to Costa Rica. This was my first time south of the U.S. and was very different than Europe and Asia. Our weather was a bit rainier than we expected though this may be foolish since it was the rainy season. The rain forest, volcano and wildlife we saw were impressive. This highlight for me, however, was learning how to surf. Drew, Em and I spent 2 hours on the Pacific Ocean waiting for the good waves. We were successful on a few and I cannot wait to go again. We did forget one major thing, sunscreen and spent the next week in pain. A lesson learned.
In December I got a phone call with more bad news, Michael Mowers was found dead in New Mexico. Michael was just 22 years old. I had spent a few nights at his place when I first returned to the U.S. and to hear that he was dead came as a total shock. There are still a lot of unanswered questions about the events surrounding his death, answers that may never be found.
This was a year unlike any other and with it come some favorite things. So without further ado, here are a few of my favorite things...2007 edition.
Best Album...Feist, The Reminder- This was the soundtrack of the second half of the year. The music is infectious, even if it is somewhat ruined now that she is the iPod girl. That said, the songs on this CD will forever have some very good memories associated with them. China and Brandy Alexander, Russia and the Park and State Meet and 1,2,3,4. This is an pop album that will remain on my frequently played list for quite some time.
Best Journey...Trans-Siberian- This trip is something that I have wanted to do for quite some time with a fair amount of expectation that went along with it. It did not disappoint. The six and a half days on the train were incredible, even with a bit of sickness. Time will only make the memories better. The sights, relaxation, food (or lack thereof) and people were what made this an unforgettable journey.
Bonus Prize...Trip home from Xi'an. Made for the best story and one of the most uncomfortable experiences in my life. That said, now that it is over I would not have wanted to do it any other way. Standing for 12 hours will never be forgotten.
Best Meal...Lamb Chuar and Paomo in Xi'an. Sitting in the Muslim Quarter on rickety plastic stools sharing great food and beer with Traci ranks as one of my all time top dining experiences. The evenings in Xi'an assured that I can never really enjoy American Chinese food. It just does not compare to the real stuff, whatever that may be.
Best Day...November 16th. Finals of State Meet. It will take a lot for another day to match the positive emotions of that day. Everything went right, a rare occurrence in Swimming or anything else for that matter. I am so proud of how the girl's swam.
Best Year...2007! I hope that 2008 is close to as memorable as 2007 has been. I will share with you that journey here. Wishing you a Happy New Year!
If at the end of 2006 I was to guess which way 2007 was going to end up, it really could have gone either way. The move to China was such a major undertaking, a dramatic change from what I knew there was no way to know which way it would end up. I can say, without question, the move to China was one of the best things I have ever done. The move from my comfort zone challenged me to try new things, get comfortable in sometimes uncomfortable situations, make do with what I had available, meet new people, appreciate what I had in my life and generally take advantage of life’s opportunities, never being content with the status quo.
Elizabeth Gilbert, in her memoir "Eat, Pray, Love" talks about how each place, each person, can be encapsulated in one word. She claims that Rome's word is sex while the Vatican's word is power. I was challenged to find a word to describe myself, the word that I finally settled on was experience. I am not content to be shown a picture of a place, I want to be there, experiencing it for myself. This has never been more true than in 2007. Maybe it was luck, but I was able to experience more of the world in 2007 than ever before. My experiences in China were well documented here so I will not go into too many details, however, I will say that the friends I made and the experiences that I had were far better than anything I expected prior to departure. The number one highlight of the trip was living in Beijing, experiencing all that city has to offer. I now think of Beijing as my own, with at least some knowledge of some “hidden” places, off of the tourist track. The other standout moments of the trip came from my experiences outside of Beijing, the new places I visited in Shanghai, and the city of Xi’an. While the Terra Cotta Warriors were a bit of a disappointment, the food and people of Xi’an more than made up for that. I am looking forward to my return to Beijing, I am certain that this time will be at least as rewarding as my first time as an ex-pat, perhaps more so since I will have less of a learning curve as I again immerse myself in a foreign culture.
While my time in Beijing certainly made for a great year, what really set this year apart was what occurred after I left China. The trip home was more than I could have hoped for. The people I met, the experiences I had and the places I visited were beautiful and memorable. The trip home was not without it’s low points though. A month of travel by yourself can make you lonely no matter how many people you encounter. The friendships made while traveling are generally temporary ones, lasting just as long as your paths are crossed, typically for a day or two. The necessity to remake friends becomes a bit tedious after a few days, much less almost a month. That said, I know that my experiences would have been greatly altered if I was traveling with someone else. Whether this alteration would have been for good or bad no one will ever know. The other low point was that my grandmother, Lois Jasperse passed away while I was on my way back home. While I know that she was suffering from poor healthy, a death is never easy to deal with, not being in the same country removes you even further from the grieving process.
When I got back to the State's, the run of great experiences continued. Coaching this fall went extremely well, capped by a Second Place finish at State Meet. I was also named Michigan D2 Coach of the Year, a unexpected honor to cap a very successful year. The finish to this swim season was the absolutely perfect way to end that chapter of my life, however, it also showed me how much coaching means to me. The relationships that I have formed through coaching have rarely been matched in my other endeavors. In part because of the success at the end of the year, I will be back next year to coach FHC again. Maybe it is a bit of hubris, to come back and try to match the success that we had this year will take a huge effort, but an effort that I feel is worth it. The finish to 2007 is icing on the cake, showing me that, even if it was not clear to me before, all of the time that I have spent on deck coaching has been worth it.
The year was capped off with yet another trip, this time over Thanksgiving to Costa Rica. This was my first time south of the U.S. and was very different than Europe and Asia. Our weather was a bit rainier than we expected though this may be foolish since it was the rainy season. The rain forest, volcano and wildlife we saw were impressive. This highlight for me, however, was learning how to surf. Drew, Em and I spent 2 hours on the Pacific Ocean waiting for the good waves. We were successful on a few and I cannot wait to go again. We did forget one major thing, sunscreen and spent the next week in pain. A lesson learned.
In December I got a phone call with more bad news, Michael Mowers was found dead in New Mexico. Michael was just 22 years old. I had spent a few nights at his place when I first returned to the U.S. and to hear that he was dead came as a total shock. There are still a lot of unanswered questions about the events surrounding his death, answers that may never be found.
This was a year unlike any other and with it come some favorite things. So without further ado, here are a few of my favorite things...2007 edition.
Best Album...Feist, The Reminder- This was the soundtrack of the second half of the year. The music is infectious, even if it is somewhat ruined now that she is the iPod girl. That said, the songs on this CD will forever have some very good memories associated with them. China and Brandy Alexander, Russia and the Park and State Meet and 1,2,3,4. This is an pop album that will remain on my frequently played list for quite some time.
Best Journey...Trans-Siberian- This trip is something that I have wanted to do for quite some time with a fair amount of expectation that went along with it. It did not disappoint. The six and a half days on the train were incredible, even with a bit of sickness. Time will only make the memories better. The sights, relaxation, food (or lack thereof) and people were what made this an unforgettable journey.
Bonus Prize...Trip home from Xi'an. Made for the best story and one of the most uncomfortable experiences in my life. That said, now that it is over I would not have wanted to do it any other way. Standing for 12 hours will never be forgotten.
Best Meal...Lamb Chuar and Paomo in Xi'an. Sitting in the Muslim Quarter on rickety plastic stools sharing great food and beer with Traci ranks as one of my all time top dining experiences. The evenings in Xi'an assured that I can never really enjoy American Chinese food. It just does not compare to the real stuff, whatever that may be.
Best Day...November 16th. Finals of State Meet. It will take a lot for another day to match the positive emotions of that day. Everything went right, a rare occurrence in Swimming or anything else for that matter. I am so proud of how the girl's swam.
Best Year...2007! I hope that 2008 is close to as memorable as 2007 has been. I will share with you that journey here. Wishing you a Happy New Year!
9.16.2007
Hiatus...
I am taking a break from posting while in the United States. I am planning on returning to China sometime early in 2008. I will begin updates again when I have more information about my return and of course of my adventures when I do return.
7.30.2007
Trip home Overview
There are some trips that are simply a way of getting from point A to point B, there are others that seem to be life changing experiences at the time, but turn out to be a simple collection of memories as time passes, then there are the truly life changing, the trips that have a paradigm shift in which you learn things about the world and most importantly, yourself. I firmly believe (and hope) that I am in the midst of one of these life changing trips. I am currently making my way across Norway on what can only be described as a breathtakingly beautiful trip… which of course means that you are free to ask why I am on my laptop rather than looking out the window. The places that I have experienced on my trip home have been fantastic, places that I already wish I was back in. The itinerary for the trip was such that I got just a taste of many different places, rather than the chance to really explore the inner workings of any one city. This has made for a frenetic pace, the feeling that I am constantly on the move. That part I am ready to be done with…but the places that I have been to, I can never be done with those.
Moscow was incredible, and very unexpected, like nothing I had ever imagined Moscow to be. It was a perfect transition between Beijing and Europe. Still slightly stuck in the communist era, but a big modern, bustling city firmly headed towards taking it place as a major European capital rather than the head of the Eastern Bloc.
St Petersburg stepped a bit closer to feeling like a European city, full of 18th century architecture, overwhelming museums, expansive palaces, historical sights and everything else that you would hope to find in European Capitals. The weather was hit or miss in St Petersburg, but that did little to take away from the splendor of this former Russian capital. It felt like I was in Amsterdam (the city St. Petersburg was modeled on) or Paris (the good parts). With just two days here, I had barely enough time to scratch the surface, making a cursory run through the Hermitage collection, a visit to Peterhof and a cathedral or two. There was so much here that I still want to see that a trip back is inevitable.
Helsinki was spectacular is a completely underwhelming way. It was calm, quiet, beautiful, and underwhelming. This is the only city where I felt like I did everything that I wanted to. Helsinki is a place that I could see myself living in, but I am not sure if I ever need to vacation there again. The people were outstandingly friendly and helpful which made my stay a complete joy. The food was excellent (though pricey), and the weather was good. It was a good midpoint for the trip, a rest before experiencing the rest of Scandinavia.
Stockholm has been my favorite stop so far. This is a wonderful city, full of history, beautiful architecture, water everywhere, good food and great museums. I could have spent another two or three weeks in Stockholm, there was way too much to do in the two days I had there. The best museum of the trip was found here, the Nobel Museum, which celebrates the achievements and lives of the Nobel laureates. The one downside of Stockholm, or for that matter all of the places I have been, was that they are not cheap places, you pay for the great weather, friendly English speaking people, clean cities and great infrastructure. That said, Stockholm is a must visit for everyone.
Oslo was the most recent place where I rested my head, and another great place. Oslo had a more industrial, big city feel to it than the other Scandinavian capitals, there was a certain charm to this. The museums here were excellent, showcasing Norway’s maritime history and unique place in the history of Europe, playing the role of neither power nor pawn, instead taking a place as intermediary, at times asserting their views into the shaping of European and World history.
The Capitals (and former Capitals) I have so far visited are now being left behind, for the more tranquil Norwegian interior and coastline. Bergen, the gateway to the Fjords awaits, sure to be even more impressive than anything I have experienced yet. After that, it is homeward bound, a time to return to the States after 6 months away. I am at a loss that it has only been 6 months, there are times whne it feels like much, much longer than that, but also times when it feels like there is no way that it has been that long. This trip and time away from home has taught me a lot, about the world and myself. The lessons learned in these last 6 months are bound to shape the decisions and experiences of the remainder of my life. I am thankful of the opportunities that I have had, the support that has been given to me in order to live through the experiences I have had.
Moscow was incredible, and very unexpected, like nothing I had ever imagined Moscow to be. It was a perfect transition between Beijing and Europe. Still slightly stuck in the communist era, but a big modern, bustling city firmly headed towards taking it place as a major European capital rather than the head of the Eastern Bloc.
St Petersburg stepped a bit closer to feeling like a European city, full of 18th century architecture, overwhelming museums, expansive palaces, historical sights and everything else that you would hope to find in European Capitals. The weather was hit or miss in St Petersburg, but that did little to take away from the splendor of this former Russian capital. It felt like I was in Amsterdam (the city St. Petersburg was modeled on) or Paris (the good parts). With just two days here, I had barely enough time to scratch the surface, making a cursory run through the Hermitage collection, a visit to Peterhof and a cathedral or two. There was so much here that I still want to see that a trip back is inevitable.
Helsinki was spectacular is a completely underwhelming way. It was calm, quiet, beautiful, and underwhelming. This is the only city where I felt like I did everything that I wanted to. Helsinki is a place that I could see myself living in, but I am not sure if I ever need to vacation there again. The people were outstandingly friendly and helpful which made my stay a complete joy. The food was excellent (though pricey), and the weather was good. It was a good midpoint for the trip, a rest before experiencing the rest of Scandinavia.
Stockholm has been my favorite stop so far. This is a wonderful city, full of history, beautiful architecture, water everywhere, good food and great museums. I could have spent another two or three weeks in Stockholm, there was way too much to do in the two days I had there. The best museum of the trip was found here, the Nobel Museum, which celebrates the achievements and lives of the Nobel laureates. The one downside of Stockholm, or for that matter all of the places I have been, was that they are not cheap places, you pay for the great weather, friendly English speaking people, clean cities and great infrastructure. That said, Stockholm is a must visit for everyone.
Oslo was the most recent place where I rested my head, and another great place. Oslo had a more industrial, big city feel to it than the other Scandinavian capitals, there was a certain charm to this. The museums here were excellent, showcasing Norway’s maritime history and unique place in the history of Europe, playing the role of neither power nor pawn, instead taking a place as intermediary, at times asserting their views into the shaping of European and World history.
The Capitals (and former Capitals) I have so far visited are now being left behind, for the more tranquil Norwegian interior and coastline. Bergen, the gateway to the Fjords awaits, sure to be even more impressive than anything I have experienced yet. After that, it is homeward bound, a time to return to the States after 6 months away. I am at a loss that it has only been 6 months, there are times whne it feels like much, much longer than that, but also times when it feels like there is no way that it has been that long. This trip and time away from home has taught me a lot, about the world and myself. The lessons learned in these last 6 months are bound to shape the decisions and experiences of the remainder of my life. I am thankful of the opportunities that I have had, the support that has been given to me in order to live through the experiences I have had.
7.19.2007
Moscow
I am in the midst of my third day in Moscow, and I continue to be shocked and amazed at this city. I am pretty sure that none of my expectations about this city have been met, and I assure you that this is a very good thing. I love this place, it is everything that I like in a city, plus the weather has been nice, which is always a plus.
I am going to try and hold out some levels of judgment about Moscow until I have visited a few more cities on my journey home. I fear that one of the reasons that I have been so enchanted by Moscow is that it is the polar opposite of Beijing. They may share a legacy as capital cities of Communist nations, but Moscow has emerged from this shadow and embraced their role as a leading European Capital city. The weather is much less humid than Beijing, cooler, I actually can see the blue sky, there is a gentle breeze, in short it is a refreshing break from the weather in Beijing. It is a much more compact city than Beijing is, which makes it much easier to get around as well.
The city has everything that you think of when you think about Europe, or at least it has everything that I think of when I think about Europe. It has shopping, a long history, cobblestone-paved streets, Greek revival architecture, nice cars, friendly people, and good food. This should not be surprising, but I set out on this journey expecting communist era apartment blocks, Russian mobsters, expensive cars, a relatively high police presence which I am sure is here, I just have not really found these things, except for the expensive cars, those are everywhere. This city has been revitalized by the presence of the Russian Oil money; there are luxury stores all over the central downtown area.
The History of Russia is as long and complicated as any nation in the world, and many of the events that shaped this history happened right here in Moscow, which make for great sightseeing. The Kremlin is beautiful, the Red Square much more appealing than Tiananmen Square, St. Basil’s Cathedral is as unique as any picture you have ever seen of it, there are great parks throughout the city, in short, it is a great destination, a very surprising destination, but a great one.
I have absolutely no Russian language skills, which is incredibly refreshing. I am able to plead complete ignorance here, which has been awesome. It is not too limiting (may people here speak at least some English) and compared to feeling like I should have understood more Mandarin than I did, it is very freeing to be a complete ignoramus. I like it!
This trip has had some costs and surprises that went with it, mostly dealing with the logistics of Russia. I tried to access my ATM card here with no success. Upon calling my bank, I was informed that all Russian transactions are blocked and there is no way to override this, in short, I have no access to my ATM card because of fraud in Russia. Fortunately, I had cash to exchange, otherwise it would have been a trip where I needed to beg borrow and steal to get by. My Credit Card works from time to time, so it has made me watch my rubles a bit closer, which is a good thing given that this is a pretty expensive city to stay, eat and see sights in.
I am here for one more day before heading to St. Petersburg and then Scandinavia. I can only hope that the rest of the trip compares favorably to Moscow, this is a great city that I would recommend as a destination to anyone looking for a European destination that does not come to mind right away.
I am going to try and hold out some levels of judgment about Moscow until I have visited a few more cities on my journey home. I fear that one of the reasons that I have been so enchanted by Moscow is that it is the polar opposite of Beijing. They may share a legacy as capital cities of Communist nations, but Moscow has emerged from this shadow and embraced their role as a leading European Capital city. The weather is much less humid than Beijing, cooler, I actually can see the blue sky, there is a gentle breeze, in short it is a refreshing break from the weather in Beijing. It is a much more compact city than Beijing is, which makes it much easier to get around as well.
The city has everything that you think of when you think about Europe, or at least it has everything that I think of when I think about Europe. It has shopping, a long history, cobblestone-paved streets, Greek revival architecture, nice cars, friendly people, and good food. This should not be surprising, but I set out on this journey expecting communist era apartment blocks, Russian mobsters, expensive cars, a relatively high police presence which I am sure is here, I just have not really found these things, except for the expensive cars, those are everywhere. This city has been revitalized by the presence of the Russian Oil money; there are luxury stores all over the central downtown area.
The History of Russia is as long and complicated as any nation in the world, and many of the events that shaped this history happened right here in Moscow, which make for great sightseeing. The Kremlin is beautiful, the Red Square much more appealing than Tiananmen Square, St. Basil’s Cathedral is as unique as any picture you have ever seen of it, there are great parks throughout the city, in short, it is a great destination, a very surprising destination, but a great one.
I have absolutely no Russian language skills, which is incredibly refreshing. I am able to plead complete ignorance here, which has been awesome. It is not too limiting (may people here speak at least some English) and compared to feeling like I should have understood more Mandarin than I did, it is very freeing to be a complete ignoramus. I like it!
This trip has had some costs and surprises that went with it, mostly dealing with the logistics of Russia. I tried to access my ATM card here with no success. Upon calling my bank, I was informed that all Russian transactions are blocked and there is no way to override this, in short, I have no access to my ATM card because of fraud in Russia. Fortunately, I had cash to exchange, otherwise it would have been a trip where I needed to beg borrow and steal to get by. My Credit Card works from time to time, so it has made me watch my rubles a bit closer, which is a good thing given that this is a pretty expensive city to stay, eat and see sights in.
I am here for one more day before heading to St. Petersburg and then Scandinavia. I can only hope that the rest of the trip compares favorably to Moscow, this is a great city that I would recommend as a destination to anyone looking for a European destination that does not come to mind right away.
7.17.2007
Two Mongolians, one Chinese Businessman and a Frozen Fish
My trip home was the part of my experience that from day one I was looking forward to the most. I could not wait to spend six days on a train, sitting, sleeping, reading, looking out the window, nothing sounded quite as nice as this did. And for all intents and purposes, it lived up to its billing. There were a couple of times, especially today, when I really just wanted to be off of the stupid train. The tight quarters were getting to be a bit much, but overall, a rockin’ good time.
There were a couple of parts of the journey that I was a bit worried about….getting to the train station on time and my cabin companions. I had no problem with getting to the train station, I actually had a bit of time to kill. As for my cabin mates…let’s just say that they did not quite fit my idea of dream cabin mates, single, attractive, smart females that happened to be looking for a tall American that wants to more or less live abroad for a while and has been known to be hard to please. As I boarded the train I sat in my compartment in car #5 looking at the others that filed onto the train….they were, without exception male and Chinese. It began to dawn on me that the fact that I had booked my ticket in China probably meant that I would not be surrounded by other Westerners, something I had been expecting since the Trans-Mongolian route (which I took) is dominated by Westerners. As more and more people began to fill the car, a strange thing happened though, no one put their stuff in my compartment… It turns out that, perhaps because I was a foreigner, there was no one else booked into my compartment. This changed a little, when a Chinese businessman realized that he could have a lower bunk in my compartment instead of the upper bunk that he had in his, but no one else came in, we were joined for about 12 hours by a Mongolian father and son from Erlian (Chinese-Mongolian Border town) to Ulan-Bator. The only other thing to join us was a frozen fish (along with someone else’s luggage) while we crossed the Russian border to spread out how many goods him and his companion were taking into Russia. This had the wonderful quality of stinking up the car, but no other real benefit. All in all it was a very peaceful trip, highlighted by sleeping and reading.
The journey produced a couple of notable occurrences, all dealing with language issues. This was one of the first times that I had a lengthy conversation in Chinese, since Hu Zhangli spoke no English. I pretty much exhausted what I have gotten to in my tutor lessons so far by the end of the first day, rather the first hour, but that did not stop us from trying to learn a bit more about each other as time went on. I found out a lot about him while getting ready to cross the Russian border. The mounds of paperwork that we had to fill out to cross (ok, just three sheets, but two copies of each) gave me a chance to ask odd questions, like, how much currency do you have with you, how many bags do you have, important things. Most of the paperwork was given to us in Russian only, though one form also had English on it. Neither of us spoke any Russian, nor can we read the Cyrillic alphabet. This made for a difficult situation where, using a guidebook and the one form in English, I translated the Russian form into English and then tried to explain the information that went in each spot using a phrasebook and my little Chinese to Hu. All in all it worked pretty well, and we both made it through Customs without any worries or too many extra questions.
The scenery was impressive, but especially through Mongolia and the first day in Russia. After that, the sights began to look a lot like Michigan. The Gobi desert was beautiful, a place that I will be sure to visit again. The Mongolian plain north of Ulan-Bator was even more impressive. In Russia it rained all the first day, the day that we passed by Lake Baikal. What I could see was impressive, but I am sure that on a clear day the lake and surrounding mountains would have been even more majestic.
This was a trip of a lifetime, one that is just beginning. At the end of my stay in China I was just beginning to feel like I had some command of the language, that I could compose myself in public in bits and pieces of the native language, now I find myself again in a place where I speak nothing….and I kind of really like it. I have no desire to learn Russian, so I just shrug and act like the ignorant American that I am. My first impressions of Moscow are that I am really impressed. A lot of these feeling may be that I am in a European city, with fresh air, blue skies and cool air for the first time in a long time, but all in all I really enjoy it here so far. Much more to come later on as I continue to make my way across the Northern Hemisphere.
There were a couple of parts of the journey that I was a bit worried about….getting to the train station on time and my cabin companions. I had no problem with getting to the train station, I actually had a bit of time to kill. As for my cabin mates…let’s just say that they did not quite fit my idea of dream cabin mates, single, attractive, smart females that happened to be looking for a tall American that wants to more or less live abroad for a while and has been known to be hard to please. As I boarded the train I sat in my compartment in car #5 looking at the others that filed onto the train….they were, without exception male and Chinese. It began to dawn on me that the fact that I had booked my ticket in China probably meant that I would not be surrounded by other Westerners, something I had been expecting since the Trans-Mongolian route (which I took) is dominated by Westerners. As more and more people began to fill the car, a strange thing happened though, no one put their stuff in my compartment… It turns out that, perhaps because I was a foreigner, there was no one else booked into my compartment. This changed a little, when a Chinese businessman realized that he could have a lower bunk in my compartment instead of the upper bunk that he had in his, but no one else came in, we were joined for about 12 hours by a Mongolian father and son from Erlian (Chinese-Mongolian Border town) to Ulan-Bator. The only other thing to join us was a frozen fish (along with someone else’s luggage) while we crossed the Russian border to spread out how many goods him and his companion were taking into Russia. This had the wonderful quality of stinking up the car, but no other real benefit. All in all it was a very peaceful trip, highlighted by sleeping and reading.
The journey produced a couple of notable occurrences, all dealing with language issues. This was one of the first times that I had a lengthy conversation in Chinese, since Hu Zhangli spoke no English. I pretty much exhausted what I have gotten to in my tutor lessons so far by the end of the first day, rather the first hour, but that did not stop us from trying to learn a bit more about each other as time went on. I found out a lot about him while getting ready to cross the Russian border. The mounds of paperwork that we had to fill out to cross (ok, just three sheets, but two copies of each) gave me a chance to ask odd questions, like, how much currency do you have with you, how many bags do you have, important things. Most of the paperwork was given to us in Russian only, though one form also had English on it. Neither of us spoke any Russian, nor can we read the Cyrillic alphabet. This made for a difficult situation where, using a guidebook and the one form in English, I translated the Russian form into English and then tried to explain the information that went in each spot using a phrasebook and my little Chinese to Hu. All in all it worked pretty well, and we both made it through Customs without any worries or too many extra questions.
The scenery was impressive, but especially through Mongolia and the first day in Russia. After that, the sights began to look a lot like Michigan. The Gobi desert was beautiful, a place that I will be sure to visit again. The Mongolian plain north of Ulan-Bator was even more impressive. In Russia it rained all the first day, the day that we passed by Lake Baikal. What I could see was impressive, but I am sure that on a clear day the lake and surrounding mountains would have been even more majestic.
This was a trip of a lifetime, one that is just beginning. At the end of my stay in China I was just beginning to feel like I had some command of the language, that I could compose myself in public in bits and pieces of the native language, now I find myself again in a place where I speak nothing….and I kind of really like it. I have no desire to learn Russian, so I just shrug and act like the ignorant American that I am. My first impressions of Moscow are that I am really impressed. A lot of these feeling may be that I am in a European city, with fresh air, blue skies and cool air for the first time in a long time, but all in all I really enjoy it here so far. Much more to come later on as I continue to make my way across the Northern Hemisphere.
7.06.2007
Swim Team
This will probably be my second to last post from China and perhaps the last one actually posted when I am physically in China. It is so hard for me to grasp the reality that I am leaving China in less than 6 days. Wednesday, July 11 is the big day and I get more excited as the time gets closer and closer.
I joined a master's swim team here in Beijing, by which I mean I showed up today for the master's workout at a park. It was good to get in the water if only for two workouts (today and Saturday). I have not swam all that much in the last few years and it felt pretty good to be back in the water. There were only three of us there today, but it is so much easier to have people to swim with rather than trying to come up with motivation for yourself.
It was not a spectacular workout, but it was something. I did 2000 meters which is actually probably one of the longest workouts I have done since my Calvin days. To make it worse it was in LCM, a 50 meter pool...it is hard to swim that far with half the number of walls. I know that I give my swimmers crap if they complain about things like this, but it is amazing how quickly your tune changes when the shoe is on the other foot. I would try to cram another cliche into that sentance but I feel that I have reached my cliche quota for this post.
The pool was pretty nice, situated in a park in the northeast part of the city. I really enjoy swimming outdoors, looking at the buildings that ring this urban oasis. What I did find odd though was the behavior of so many people that were using the pool. There were signs posted everywhere that said no diving but when people dove no one said anything (the water was about 1.5 meters deep). The attention that the lifeguards were paying to the patrons made my head lifeguard stomach turn. There were conversations, eating and generally not paying much attention to the people in the pool that really left something to be desired when it came to swimming skill. I was yelled at for drinking water while still in the pool, I needed to get out of the water to consume the shui, yet it seemed totally normal for most of the patrons to go for a dip, swim a few laps then get out for a cigarette. The amount of smoking that occurs in this country puts any European nation to shame. It is really something else how much a part of culture smoking has become here.
After the workout I rewarded myself with my last massage this trip in Beijing. I will miss the bi-weekly treat that I have allowed myself, but there is just no way that I can afford that in the States. I am going back to the park on Saturday morning for one last swim. I figure I need all the exercise I can get before sitting on the train for 6 days. I will update as often as possible on the trip home, but many of the updates may need to happen when I get back to the States.
Zai Jian
I joined a master's swim team here in Beijing, by which I mean I showed up today for the master's workout at a park. It was good to get in the water if only for two workouts (today and Saturday). I have not swam all that much in the last few years and it felt pretty good to be back in the water. There were only three of us there today, but it is so much easier to have people to swim with rather than trying to come up with motivation for yourself.
It was not a spectacular workout, but it was something. I did 2000 meters which is actually probably one of the longest workouts I have done since my Calvin days. To make it worse it was in LCM, a 50 meter pool...it is hard to swim that far with half the number of walls. I know that I give my swimmers crap if they complain about things like this, but it is amazing how quickly your tune changes when the shoe is on the other foot. I would try to cram another cliche into that sentance but I feel that I have reached my cliche quota for this post.
The pool was pretty nice, situated in a park in the northeast part of the city. I really enjoy swimming outdoors, looking at the buildings that ring this urban oasis. What I did find odd though was the behavior of so many people that were using the pool. There were signs posted everywhere that said no diving but when people dove no one said anything (the water was about 1.5 meters deep). The attention that the lifeguards were paying to the patrons made my head lifeguard stomach turn. There were conversations, eating and generally not paying much attention to the people in the pool that really left something to be desired when it came to swimming skill. I was yelled at for drinking water while still in the pool, I needed to get out of the water to consume the shui, yet it seemed totally normal for most of the patrons to go for a dip, swim a few laps then get out for a cigarette. The amount of smoking that occurs in this country puts any European nation to shame. It is really something else how much a part of culture smoking has become here.
After the workout I rewarded myself with my last massage this trip in Beijing. I will miss the bi-weekly treat that I have allowed myself, but there is just no way that I can afford that in the States. I am going back to the park on Saturday morning for one last swim. I figure I need all the exercise I can get before sitting on the train for 6 days. I will update as often as possible on the trip home, but many of the updates may need to happen when I get back to the States.
Zai Jian
6.24.2007
Two Weeks Left...
I seem to be dwelling on the fact that my time in Beijing is coming to a temporary close. I know that endings are an inevitable and assumed part of living temporarily somewhere, but I continue to be amazed with how quickly time seems to pass as I get older. It seems like just a matter of weeks ago that I was stepping onto the plane in Grand Rapids, unsure of just how this experience would treat me, what friends I would make, what would Beijing be like, how would I adjust to teaching...in just five short month I can no longer imagine my life without this set of experiences. I love it here and cannot wait to get back here after the fall. That said, I cannot wait to get back home and the comforts that this brings.
Reflecting on my time here, I keep coming back to the question of what would be a perfect day for me in Beijing...what would I do, what would I see, where would I eat if time and money were not of primary considerations...plus I would not get full since food plays so prominently into my idea of a perfect experience.
The day would begin with a trip to Steak and Eggs...one of the few places in Beijing to get a good American Breakfast. It is not nearly as good as Wolfgangs, but for here it is not too bad. After this I would make my way to the Old Summer Palace. I visited here for the first time just this past weekend, but it is one of my favorite places in Beijing. It was remarkably empty for a "tourist" attraction in Beijing. The palace that was on this site was destroyed by Anglo-Franco troops in the Second Opium War. The remains of the palace can still be seen. My feeling is that the site of the Old Summer Palace is nicer than the new Summer Palace. Both have their charms, but perhaps because of the relative lack of crowds, I preferred the old to the New.
For lunch I would eat at the Golden Peacock Dai Minority Cuisine restaurant. This is one of the best "bang for the buck" restaurants that I have encountered anywhere on earth. This is food that is so good I would easily spend 20 dollars or more for a meal with drinks...instead, I typically spend no more than 5 dollars, drinks included. It actually is only that much if I go there myself, with a group it is usually kept to 2 or 3 dollars per person. The highlights of this restaurant are really spicy beef, pineapple rice that is sweet and glutinous, potato balls with sesame oil and cilantro dipping sauce that are better than any french fry I have ever had anywhere, cheap beer, free appetizers that I would order as an entree if they were on the menu and a friendly and attentive staff (somewhat rare here in China). All told this is one of my favorite restaurants anywhere on earth, regardless of price. The fact it is so cheap makes it all that much better.
After time spent in the park, which is essentially what the Old Summer Palace is, and lunch, I would make my way to Nanluogu Xiang, a hutong filled with shops, restaurants, cafe's and similar small business' in a restored Hutong (old Beijing alley). This is a pretty calm street in the middle of the city, too narrow for much traffic to pass and a great place to spend a quite afternoon with a book, checking your email (most cafe's have wi-fi) and grabbing a good bite to eat. After relaxing for a while at a cafe the hutongs that surround nanluogu make for a great view of daily life in Beijing. The hutongs that surround tend to be less restored and commercialized, giving a glimpse into the daily life that is the reality of so many Beijing residents.
The late afternoon calls for a Massage which means Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat, one of the most peaceful massage places I have encountered. This place specializes in relaxation, which is sometimes great and others not quite what is needed. The massages can be out fo this world but occasionally fail to hit the mark. That said, more times than not I walk away a very satisfied customer, plus the price cannot be matched (in the United States, for China it is on the expensive side of massages) at just 13.50 for an hour long massage. As an occasional hedonist, I usually indulge in a one hour foot massage followed by a one hour body massage that puts me in a deep state or relaxation...
Dinner would follow that relaxation and there are numerous choices for a great dinner in Beijing. Since it is a piece on Beijing, my choice will be Beijing Duck. The flavor of this famous dish lives up the the hype and makes for a great day. A thin pancake with plum sauce, a few pieces of crispy duck, sliced onion, sliced apple and a bit of garlic and sugar make for a succulent treat that I am prone to stuffing myself with. An entire duck (which feeds two or three with some side dishes) goes for about 11 dollars, a bargain again for the levels of flavor that exist in this Beijing treat.
Following dinner and the massage, any level of relaxation goes out the window as I amke my way to the Fengtai Stadium to watch Beijing Guoan, my club team play a level of pretty poor soccer. The games are entertaining though, a great way to spend the evening with the Chinese (few foreigners attend the games). The level of play for a professional team is not that much higher than mid-level college teams, but still a lot of fun to watch.
Following the game there are numerous bars to relax with a cheap (less than 75 cents) beer or two.
While I would love to have a day like this, the time and travel constraints probably will keep this from ever happening, but this is my Beijing. This is a great place with a lot to offer. If you want to spend the day as a tourist this is very easy, if you want to spend it as a local (as much as a really tall white boy can) this is even easier. There are so many great things that I have yet to discover here. My ideal day may very well look a whole lot different in another year. I am just excited that I am lucky enough to have the chance to experience these events.
All the best,
Zai Jian
Reflecting on my time here, I keep coming back to the question of what would be a perfect day for me in Beijing...what would I do, what would I see, where would I eat if time and money were not of primary considerations...plus I would not get full since food plays so prominently into my idea of a perfect experience.
The day would begin with a trip to Steak and Eggs...one of the few places in Beijing to get a good American Breakfast. It is not nearly as good as Wolfgangs, but for here it is not too bad. After this I would make my way to the Old Summer Palace. I visited here for the first time just this past weekend, but it is one of my favorite places in Beijing. It was remarkably empty for a "tourist" attraction in Beijing. The palace that was on this site was destroyed by Anglo-Franco troops in the Second Opium War. The remains of the palace can still be seen. My feeling is that the site of the Old Summer Palace is nicer than the new Summer Palace. Both have their charms, but perhaps because of the relative lack of crowds, I preferred the old to the New.
For lunch I would eat at the Golden Peacock Dai Minority Cuisine restaurant. This is one of the best "bang for the buck" restaurants that I have encountered anywhere on earth. This is food that is so good I would easily spend 20 dollars or more for a meal with drinks...instead, I typically spend no more than 5 dollars, drinks included. It actually is only that much if I go there myself, with a group it is usually kept to 2 or 3 dollars per person. The highlights of this restaurant are really spicy beef, pineapple rice that is sweet and glutinous, potato balls with sesame oil and cilantro dipping sauce that are better than any french fry I have ever had anywhere, cheap beer, free appetizers that I would order as an entree if they were on the menu and a friendly and attentive staff (somewhat rare here in China). All told this is one of my favorite restaurants anywhere on earth, regardless of price. The fact it is so cheap makes it all that much better.
After time spent in the park, which is essentially what the Old Summer Palace is, and lunch, I would make my way to Nanluogu Xiang, a hutong filled with shops, restaurants, cafe's and similar small business' in a restored Hutong (old Beijing alley). This is a pretty calm street in the middle of the city, too narrow for much traffic to pass and a great place to spend a quite afternoon with a book, checking your email (most cafe's have wi-fi) and grabbing a good bite to eat. After relaxing for a while at a cafe the hutongs that surround nanluogu make for a great view of daily life in Beijing. The hutongs that surround tend to be less restored and commercialized, giving a glimpse into the daily life that is the reality of so many Beijing residents.
The late afternoon calls for a Massage which means Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat, one of the most peaceful massage places I have encountered. This place specializes in relaxation, which is sometimes great and others not quite what is needed. The massages can be out fo this world but occasionally fail to hit the mark. That said, more times than not I walk away a very satisfied customer, plus the price cannot be matched (in the United States, for China it is on the expensive side of massages) at just 13.50 for an hour long massage. As an occasional hedonist, I usually indulge in a one hour foot massage followed by a one hour body massage that puts me in a deep state or relaxation...
Dinner would follow that relaxation and there are numerous choices for a great dinner in Beijing. Since it is a piece on Beijing, my choice will be Beijing Duck. The flavor of this famous dish lives up the the hype and makes for a great day. A thin pancake with plum sauce, a few pieces of crispy duck, sliced onion, sliced apple and a bit of garlic and sugar make for a succulent treat that I am prone to stuffing myself with. An entire duck (which feeds two or three with some side dishes) goes for about 11 dollars, a bargain again for the levels of flavor that exist in this Beijing treat.
Following dinner and the massage, any level of relaxation goes out the window as I amke my way to the Fengtai Stadium to watch Beijing Guoan, my club team play a level of pretty poor soccer. The games are entertaining though, a great way to spend the evening with the Chinese (few foreigners attend the games). The level of play for a professional team is not that much higher than mid-level college teams, but still a lot of fun to watch.
Following the game there are numerous bars to relax with a cheap (less than 75 cents) beer or two.
While I would love to have a day like this, the time and travel constraints probably will keep this from ever happening, but this is my Beijing. This is a great place with a lot to offer. If you want to spend the day as a tourist this is very easy, if you want to spend it as a local (as much as a really tall white boy can) this is even easier. There are so many great things that I have yet to discover here. My ideal day may very well look a whole lot different in another year. I am just excited that I am lucky enough to have the chance to experience these events.
All the best,
Zai Jian
6.19.2007
Stupidity and Frustration...
I am totally in love with China...most of the time. It does seem however, that every time I have all of these warm feelings towards my adopted home, the government goes and does something idiotic. I have written about my questions with predicting the weather for the Olympics over a year in advance previously. A recent article sets new standards in environmental destruction and poorly thought through tourism. The Chinese government has recently announced that they are planning to build a "highway" up Everest. Their plan is to have a paved roadway to base camp, making the path that the Olympic Torch will follow much easier to navigate. This will cost millions of dollars, money that certainly could be spent more intelligently on education, village infrastructure, farming advances, drought prevention, reforestation, or pretty much anything...maybe even government officials salaries would be a better use of this money, at least that way some of the money would be pumped back into the Chinese economy.
http://news3.xinhuanet.com/english/2007-06/18/content_6259691.htm
http://news3.xinhuanet.com/english/2007-06/18/content_6259691.htm
6.18.2007
Life and times of a tall Beijinger
I apologize for not writing more as of late, I have been without internet and my computer for a little while now...Technical problems happen over here as well. I am guessing that everyone that is reading this has also received an email from me recently, but if not, welcome to my life in China. I cannot believe that I have less than a month left here. The time has flown by. The pending departure has caused me to frantically finish as much as I can in my time here, each weekend crossing off items from a list of things still to do in Beijing. I must say, that the crush of time to go has meant that my weekends have been far more productive than when I felt that I still had unlimited amounts of time to spend here in China. Each weekend I visit three or four restaurants that I have heard about, do two or more cultural or tourist events and have pretty much made sure to make the most out of my time here.
This task of getting things done has been made much easier by the presence of a new place to live. I have added a second apartment in my life. For the last few weeks I have been spending the weekends at my new apartment in downtown (kind of) Beijing. My apartment is in the Students district and is really cheap. I will say that the quality of my living is a bit lower than any place that I would ever consider to live in the U.S., but for some reason I have no problem with the place in China. I love the added convenience that living in the city gives. Knowing that I do not need to go all the way back to Huijia has allowed me to see Soccer games, go the Symphony, go Salsa Dancing, spend a lot more money at Restaurants, do more shopping, sleep in later on the days of my Chinese lessons and pretty much just get more out of life.
Speaking of Chinese lessons, it finally feels like Chinese is kind of starting to click. While there is still so much more that I do not get than I do, I am beginning to understand random bits of overheard conversations. This, along with a pretty firm grasp of ordering and directional language has more or less allowed me to actually listen to what is coming out of people’s mouths rather than just assuming that I do not understand what is being said. I can string a few sentences together now and can give some basics when meeting people for the first time. This is the first time that I have felt this way with a foreign language and the sense of accomplishment, at least when not drowned out by the feeling of utter stupidity because of lack of Mandarin knowledge, is pretty awesome. I still have a very long way to go, but I am starting to feel that progress is being made.
In addition to the Mandarin breakthrough’s I have also begun tutoring a student in conversational English. My Chinese tutor had a friend that was looking to improve her spoken English and thought of me. I think that her English is pretty fluent, but she wants more help. I hope that I can help her out, but if nothing else it is teaching me a lot about the culture and life of a normal Chinese person.
These experiences have combined to reassuring me that I need to be back here. I am in the process of figuring out what to do when I look to return in the winter. I am planning on being back in December, hopefully at my same school. Time will tell, but what I do know is that I am still having the time of my life over here. I hope everyone is well. I cannot wait to see you soon.
This task of getting things done has been made much easier by the presence of a new place to live. I have added a second apartment in my life. For the last few weeks I have been spending the weekends at my new apartment in downtown (kind of) Beijing. My apartment is in the Students district and is really cheap. I will say that the quality of my living is a bit lower than any place that I would ever consider to live in the U.S., but for some reason I have no problem with the place in China. I love the added convenience that living in the city gives. Knowing that I do not need to go all the way back to Huijia has allowed me to see Soccer games, go the Symphony, go Salsa Dancing, spend a lot more money at Restaurants, do more shopping, sleep in later on the days of my Chinese lessons and pretty much just get more out of life.
Speaking of Chinese lessons, it finally feels like Chinese is kind of starting to click. While there is still so much more that I do not get than I do, I am beginning to understand random bits of overheard conversations. This, along with a pretty firm grasp of ordering and directional language has more or less allowed me to actually listen to what is coming out of people’s mouths rather than just assuming that I do not understand what is being said. I can string a few sentences together now and can give some basics when meeting people for the first time. This is the first time that I have felt this way with a foreign language and the sense of accomplishment, at least when not drowned out by the feeling of utter stupidity because of lack of Mandarin knowledge, is pretty awesome. I still have a very long way to go, but I am starting to feel that progress is being made.
In addition to the Mandarin breakthrough’s I have also begun tutoring a student in conversational English. My Chinese tutor had a friend that was looking to improve her spoken English and thought of me. I think that her English is pretty fluent, but she wants more help. I hope that I can help her out, but if nothing else it is teaching me a lot about the culture and life of a normal Chinese person.
These experiences have combined to reassuring me that I need to be back here. I am in the process of figuring out what to do when I look to return in the winter. I am planning on being back in December, hopefully at my same school. Time will tell, but what I do know is that I am still having the time of my life over here. I hope everyone is well. I cannot wait to see you soon.
6.07.2007
Shanghai Part 3
When people in China hear that I studied and Shanghai and now live in Beijing, their first question is typically which city do you like better…which I quickly reply, Shanghai. I have come to love Beijing, but there is just no comparison to Shanghai. The response to this is typically some analysis of how Beijing is more traditional and historical, while Shanghai is more modern and business oriented. While true, I would not necessarily say that Beijing is all that much more traditional. The overall feeling of the city may skew slightly towards the traditional, but this is still a pretty modern city, especially in comparison to the villages that lay all over the city. Beijing is in the process of rapid modernization, or revitalization, or renovation…whichever you want to call it in preparation for next year’s Olympics. I was unfortunately greeted with a major reminder of these projects while going through the Forbidden City this weekend. I was disappointed to find that two of the main halls were completely covered with scaffolding. While this will improve the experience for visitors next year, it makes for an eyesore right now. I suppose that this is the cost of progress.
Shanghai is a city that changes constantly. There is likely no city in the history of the world that has experience the level of growth and modernization that Shanghai has in the last 20 years. As one piece of Shanghai lore states, during the 1990’s 1/3rd of the world’s tower cranes were located within the city limits of Shanghai. In 1984 the tallest building in the city was 24 stories tall…today, there are thousands that tower over this height. Shanghai has one of the most unique and impressive skylines in the world.
Visiting Shanghai was like catching up with an old friend. I was thrilled to find many of my favorite places still in tact, though not surprised to see that some have moved on. In a city that is developing as quickly as Shanghai is, the road to development means that history is sometimes ignored and forgotten. Beijing is the more historical city, but Shanghai has also had an illustrious (by Western standards) past. Shanghai is the city, with the exception of Hong Kong, that has had the most interaction with the west in China. There are pockets of the city that were controlled by British, French, American and Russian foreign contingents, remnants of China’s checkered history of interaction with the west. Today the reminders of this colonial period still are present in western architecture, tree lined streets and even an occasional name. Three of these colonial relics are among my favorite places in the city. The Bund, the riverfront area is among the most famous sights in Shanghai and a phenomenal place to spend a few hours wandering around, regardless of what time of day you are there. It is filled with activity throughout the day, from older people practicing tai chi, fan dancing and martial arts in the morning, to tourists in the afternoon and young couples enjoying a warm evening. The French Concession, the portion of the city controlled by the French is my favorite neighborhood in Shanghai. The tree lined streets, colonial architecture and fantastic shopping make for a great place to spend an afternoon. For a city that loves to “renovate” as much as Shanghai, it is amazing that so much of the French Concession has been preserved. Finally, the Shanghai Art Museum is the former member’s only club of the Shanghai Race Track. This used to be firmly in the British section of the city and the building was one of the most exclusive clubs in the city. Today it houses a great, though small, collection of art that showcases both traditional Chinese art as well as examples from the quickly growing modern art scene in China.
Shanghai was also the site where many European Jews made their way during the early years of the Holocaust. During this period the Japanese controlled Shanghai and because of this, there was no visa required to live in Shanghai. At the time, the United States (among many others) were refusing to grant visa’s to Jews in part because of a lack of understanding of what exactly was beginning to happen in Europe. Many Jews had no where but Shanghai to go. The story of Shanghai’s Jews is told in a wonderful documentary, Shanghai Jews, but is, for the most part a story that is not known in China. In the Shanghai City History Museum there was a brief mention of this period, but no real commemoration of the important role that Shanghai played in the preservation of the Jewish race. It was due, in part, to q quirk in history, but China and Shanghai stepped up to take in a threatened people when no one else would. This should be commemorated much more than it is.
Shanghai is, at least in my mind, a nearly perfect city. There is a mix of new and old, gaudy and understated, frantic and calm. There is so much to do regardless of what interests you, food of any culture to eat, art to see, architecture to marvel at and shopping to spend your hard earned dollars. I have no doubt that at some point in my life I will call Shanghai home. The weekend that I spent there reminded me of the charms of this city.
Shanghai is a city that changes constantly. There is likely no city in the history of the world that has experience the level of growth and modernization that Shanghai has in the last 20 years. As one piece of Shanghai lore states, during the 1990’s 1/3rd of the world’s tower cranes were located within the city limits of Shanghai. In 1984 the tallest building in the city was 24 stories tall…today, there are thousands that tower over this height. Shanghai has one of the most unique and impressive skylines in the world.
Visiting Shanghai was like catching up with an old friend. I was thrilled to find many of my favorite places still in tact, though not surprised to see that some have moved on. In a city that is developing as quickly as Shanghai is, the road to development means that history is sometimes ignored and forgotten. Beijing is the more historical city, but Shanghai has also had an illustrious (by Western standards) past. Shanghai is the city, with the exception of Hong Kong, that has had the most interaction with the west in China. There are pockets of the city that were controlled by British, French, American and Russian foreign contingents, remnants of China’s checkered history of interaction with the west. Today the reminders of this colonial period still are present in western architecture, tree lined streets and even an occasional name. Three of these colonial relics are among my favorite places in the city. The Bund, the riverfront area is among the most famous sights in Shanghai and a phenomenal place to spend a few hours wandering around, regardless of what time of day you are there. It is filled with activity throughout the day, from older people practicing tai chi, fan dancing and martial arts in the morning, to tourists in the afternoon and young couples enjoying a warm evening. The French Concession, the portion of the city controlled by the French is my favorite neighborhood in Shanghai. The tree lined streets, colonial architecture and fantastic shopping make for a great place to spend an afternoon. For a city that loves to “renovate” as much as Shanghai, it is amazing that so much of the French Concession has been preserved. Finally, the Shanghai Art Museum is the former member’s only club of the Shanghai Race Track. This used to be firmly in the British section of the city and the building was one of the most exclusive clubs in the city. Today it houses a great, though small, collection of art that showcases both traditional Chinese art as well as examples from the quickly growing modern art scene in China.
Shanghai was also the site where many European Jews made their way during the early years of the Holocaust. During this period the Japanese controlled Shanghai and because of this, there was no visa required to live in Shanghai. At the time, the United States (among many others) were refusing to grant visa’s to Jews in part because of a lack of understanding of what exactly was beginning to happen in Europe. Many Jews had no where but Shanghai to go. The story of Shanghai’s Jews is told in a wonderful documentary, Shanghai Jews, but is, for the most part a story that is not known in China. In the Shanghai City History Museum there was a brief mention of this period, but no real commemoration of the important role that Shanghai played in the preservation of the Jewish race. It was due, in part, to q quirk in history, but China and Shanghai stepped up to take in a threatened people when no one else would. This should be commemorated much more than it is.
Shanghai is, at least in my mind, a nearly perfect city. There is a mix of new and old, gaudy and understated, frantic and calm. There is so much to do regardless of what interests you, food of any culture to eat, art to see, architecture to marvel at and shopping to spend your hard earned dollars. I have no doubt that at some point in my life I will call Shanghai home. The weekend that I spent there reminded me of the charms of this city.
5.26.2007
The Life of a Rock Star
I love that I can live the life of a Rock Star here in China. There are two things that I mean by this, one, I attract a certain amount of attention just based on my European desent which I have already talked about. The second way is that I have a very high standard of living here.
This was demonstrated in Shanghai where I was able to live in relative style for not much money at all. My general philosophy while traveling is to spend as little money as possible on where I am staying, and how I get there (assuming quick and convenient travel), instead using the money I saved to eat well, do as many activities as possible and as much shopping as I want. In Shanghai I stayed at a hostel that cost me 6 dollars a night. This place had a great location, was clean and pretty much all I needed in a place to sleep. It was not the most comfortable bed in the world, but it did the trick. With the money saved on lodging, I was able to eat like a king.
There were numerous culinary highlights on the trip. Shanghai is world famous for their dumplings, and they did not dissapoint. This is a ridiculously inexpensive meal (1.25 for 16 dumplings) that is a match for any food anywhere. Given the option of having dumplings soaked in soy sauce and vinegar compared to almost any meal would be a very difficult choice for me. The combination of the dough and filling is nearly perfect. This was the least expensive meal I had, but also one of the best.
I also went to a Tapas restaurant which was excellent. Nothing exceptional compared to other Tapas places I have been, but excellent. A nice change of pace from typical Chinese and Western fare that is available in China. The highlights of this meal were the fried Mozzarella and Chedder, wine soaked beef tenderloin, great bread and above average Sangria. It was a very good meal that was, with all I got, on the cheap side.
I had two meals that broke the bank, the first was a Sunday Brunch at M on the Bund. This is a 5 star restaurant that has been reviewed by the New York Times as well as other major publications. The food here was exceptional, though arguably not quite worth the price. That said, the cost in Shanghai was really low compared to major U.S. cities. Brunch was about $25 dollars which included a cocktail, coffee and three courses. I have no doubt that a comparable meal in New York or Chicago would have pushed $100. The best part of the meal though, was not the food, nor the service (very attentive for China) but instead the view...which is probably about 1/2 of the cost of the meal. The table that I was at overlooked the entire Bund as well as the Pudong area of town. This made for a fantastic contrast of the new Shanghai and the old colonial influence in Shanghai. The Bund is comprised of classic, European architecture that has been very well preserved. The building that line the river are the former homes of banks, the Shanghai stock market, trading companies, shipping companies, pretty much where all money in Shanghai used to go through. Today these buildings have been turned into 5 star restaurants, upscale retail and still an occasional bank. They are lit up at night which makes for a very impressive sight. Wandering around the park that lies in front of the Bund in the evening is one of my favorite things to do in Shanghai. The other side of the river is about as architecturally different from the Bund as you can get. The skyline in Pudong (the recently developed Commercial center of Shanghai) is something straight out of science fiction. The building all stretch skyward with unique design. The most recognizable building is the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, a tall tower decorated by three large globes that shine Purple and Pink in the sun. Some call this an eyesore, which I suppose it kind of is, but it is a unique building that helps make Shanghai the city that it is. There countless other skyscrapers in Pudong, my favorite being the Jin Mao tower. The food at M on the Bund was excellent, but what really made this meal memorable was the view. The experience of eating here is totally worth the cost, something that I would recommend to anyone spending a weekend in Shanghai.
My favorite Pudong skyscraper, the Jin Mao building was the sight of the second break the bank dining excursion. The Jin Mao tower is home to the Hyatt who occupies the 54th floor to the 87th floor. On the 87th floor lies Cloud 9, the tallest bar in the world. I went at night to have a drink here, just to say that I had been to the highest bar in the world. The views that I were rewarded with, I feel, are unmatched anywhere in the world. I strongly believe that there is no other skyline in the world as impressive as Shanghai's. There is the mix between old and new, a mix between radical designs and traditional skyscrapers but most of all there is an astonishing number of tall buildings. From Cloud 9 the view stretches in every direction, with countless buildings stretched as far as the eye can see. I was rewarded with an amazingly clear night which made the view even more spectacular. For anyone that has been on top of the Sear's Tower or John Hancock building and been impressed, the view of Shanghai's skyline made Chicago's look shockingly bland and unimpressive. The drinks at Cloud 9 were excellent, but pricey. That said, I would have paid double just for the view.
There were a few things that I wanted to have in Shanghai that I did not get around to sampling, but there will always be another chance. The food on this trip made the weekend very memorable. If anyone is planning a trip to China let me know and I will be more than happy to share some recommendations, give directions to great restaurant and serve as a general culinary advisor if you are interested.
This was demonstrated in Shanghai where I was able to live in relative style for not much money at all. My general philosophy while traveling is to spend as little money as possible on where I am staying, and how I get there (assuming quick and convenient travel), instead using the money I saved to eat well, do as many activities as possible and as much shopping as I want. In Shanghai I stayed at a hostel that cost me 6 dollars a night. This place had a great location, was clean and pretty much all I needed in a place to sleep. It was not the most comfortable bed in the world, but it did the trick. With the money saved on lodging, I was able to eat like a king.
There were numerous culinary highlights on the trip. Shanghai is world famous for their dumplings, and they did not dissapoint. This is a ridiculously inexpensive meal (1.25 for 16 dumplings) that is a match for any food anywhere. Given the option of having dumplings soaked in soy sauce and vinegar compared to almost any meal would be a very difficult choice for me. The combination of the dough and filling is nearly perfect. This was the least expensive meal I had, but also one of the best.
I also went to a Tapas restaurant which was excellent. Nothing exceptional compared to other Tapas places I have been, but excellent. A nice change of pace from typical Chinese and Western fare that is available in China. The highlights of this meal were the fried Mozzarella and Chedder, wine soaked beef tenderloin, great bread and above average Sangria. It was a very good meal that was, with all I got, on the cheap side.
I had two meals that broke the bank, the first was a Sunday Brunch at M on the Bund. This is a 5 star restaurant that has been reviewed by the New York Times as well as other major publications. The food here was exceptional, though arguably not quite worth the price. That said, the cost in Shanghai was really low compared to major U.S. cities. Brunch was about $25 dollars which included a cocktail, coffee and three courses. I have no doubt that a comparable meal in New York or Chicago would have pushed $100. The best part of the meal though, was not the food, nor the service (very attentive for China) but instead the view...which is probably about 1/2 of the cost of the meal. The table that I was at overlooked the entire Bund as well as the Pudong area of town. This made for a fantastic contrast of the new Shanghai and the old colonial influence in Shanghai. The Bund is comprised of classic, European architecture that has been very well preserved. The building that line the river are the former homes of banks, the Shanghai stock market, trading companies, shipping companies, pretty much where all money in Shanghai used to go through. Today these buildings have been turned into 5 star restaurants, upscale retail and still an occasional bank. They are lit up at night which makes for a very impressive sight. Wandering around the park that lies in front of the Bund in the evening is one of my favorite things to do in Shanghai. The other side of the river is about as architecturally different from the Bund as you can get. The skyline in Pudong (the recently developed Commercial center of Shanghai) is something straight out of science fiction. The building all stretch skyward with unique design. The most recognizable building is the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, a tall tower decorated by three large globes that shine Purple and Pink in the sun. Some call this an eyesore, which I suppose it kind of is, but it is a unique building that helps make Shanghai the city that it is. There countless other skyscrapers in Pudong, my favorite being the Jin Mao tower. The food at M on the Bund was excellent, but what really made this meal memorable was the view. The experience of eating here is totally worth the cost, something that I would recommend to anyone spending a weekend in Shanghai.
My favorite Pudong skyscraper, the Jin Mao building was the sight of the second break the bank dining excursion. The Jin Mao tower is home to the Hyatt who occupies the 54th floor to the 87th floor. On the 87th floor lies Cloud 9, the tallest bar in the world. I went at night to have a drink here, just to say that I had been to the highest bar in the world. The views that I were rewarded with, I feel, are unmatched anywhere in the world. I strongly believe that there is no other skyline in the world as impressive as Shanghai's. There is the mix between old and new, a mix between radical designs and traditional skyscrapers but most of all there is an astonishing number of tall buildings. From Cloud 9 the view stretches in every direction, with countless buildings stretched as far as the eye can see. I was rewarded with an amazingly clear night which made the view even more spectacular. For anyone that has been on top of the Sear's Tower or John Hancock building and been impressed, the view of Shanghai's skyline made Chicago's look shockingly bland and unimpressive. The drinks at Cloud 9 were excellent, but pricey. That said, I would have paid double just for the view.
There were a few things that I wanted to have in Shanghai that I did not get around to sampling, but there will always be another chance. The food on this trip made the weekend very memorable. If anyone is planning a trip to China let me know and I will be more than happy to share some recommendations, give directions to great restaurant and serve as a general culinary advisor if you are interested.
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