6.24.2007

Two Weeks Left...

I seem to be dwelling on the fact that my time in Beijing is coming to a temporary close. I know that endings are an inevitable and assumed part of living temporarily somewhere, but I continue to be amazed with how quickly time seems to pass as I get older. It seems like just a matter of weeks ago that I was stepping onto the plane in Grand Rapids, unsure of just how this experience would treat me, what friends I would make, what would Beijing be like, how would I adjust to teaching...in just five short month I can no longer imagine my life without this set of experiences. I love it here and cannot wait to get back here after the fall. That said, I cannot wait to get back home and the comforts that this brings.

Reflecting on my time here, I keep coming back to the question of what would be a perfect day for me in Beijing...what would I do, what would I see, where would I eat if time and money were not of primary considerations...plus I would not get full since food plays so prominently into my idea of a perfect experience.

The day would begin with a trip to Steak and Eggs...one of the few places in Beijing to get a good American Breakfast. It is not nearly as good as Wolfgangs, but for here it is not too bad. After this I would make my way to the Old Summer Palace. I visited here for the first time just this past weekend, but it is one of my favorite places in Beijing. It was remarkably empty for a "tourist" attraction in Beijing. The palace that was on this site was destroyed by Anglo-Franco troops in the Second Opium War. The remains of the palace can still be seen. My feeling is that the site of the Old Summer Palace is nicer than the new Summer Palace. Both have their charms, but perhaps because of the relative lack of crowds, I preferred the old to the New.

For lunch I would eat at the Golden Peacock Dai Minority Cuisine restaurant. This is one of the best "bang for the buck" restaurants that I have encountered anywhere on earth. This is food that is so good I would easily spend 20 dollars or more for a meal with drinks...instead, I typically spend no more than 5 dollars, drinks included. It actually is only that much if I go there myself, with a group it is usually kept to 2 or 3 dollars per person. The highlights of this restaurant are really spicy beef, pineapple rice that is sweet and glutinous, potato balls with sesame oil and cilantro dipping sauce that are better than any french fry I have ever had anywhere, cheap beer, free appetizers that I would order as an entree if they were on the menu and a friendly and attentive staff (somewhat rare here in China). All told this is one of my favorite restaurants anywhere on earth, regardless of price. The fact it is so cheap makes it all that much better.

After time spent in the park, which is essentially what the Old Summer Palace is, and lunch, I would make my way to Nanluogu Xiang, a hutong filled with shops, restaurants, cafe's and similar small business' in a restored Hutong (old Beijing alley). This is a pretty calm street in the middle of the city, too narrow for much traffic to pass and a great place to spend a quite afternoon with a book, checking your email (most cafe's have wi-fi) and grabbing a good bite to eat. After relaxing for a while at a cafe the hutongs that surround nanluogu make for a great view of daily life in Beijing. The hutongs that surround tend to be less restored and commercialized, giving a glimpse into the daily life that is the reality of so many Beijing residents.

The late afternoon calls for a Massage which means Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat, one of the most peaceful massage places I have encountered. This place specializes in relaxation, which is sometimes great and others not quite what is needed. The massages can be out fo this world but occasionally fail to hit the mark. That said, more times than not I walk away a very satisfied customer, plus the price cannot be matched (in the United States, for China it is on the expensive side of massages) at just 13.50 for an hour long massage. As an occasional hedonist, I usually indulge in a one hour foot massage followed by a one hour body massage that puts me in a deep state or relaxation...

Dinner would follow that relaxation and there are numerous choices for a great dinner in Beijing. Since it is a piece on Beijing, my choice will be Beijing Duck. The flavor of this famous dish lives up the the hype and makes for a great day. A thin pancake with plum sauce, a few pieces of crispy duck, sliced onion, sliced apple and a bit of garlic and sugar make for a succulent treat that I am prone to stuffing myself with. An entire duck (which feeds two or three with some side dishes) goes for about 11 dollars, a bargain again for the levels of flavor that exist in this Beijing treat.

Following dinner and the massage, any level of relaxation goes out the window as I amke my way to the Fengtai Stadium to watch Beijing Guoan, my club team play a level of pretty poor soccer. The games are entertaining though, a great way to spend the evening with the Chinese (few foreigners attend the games). The level of play for a professional team is not that much higher than mid-level college teams, but still a lot of fun to watch.

Following the game there are numerous bars to relax with a cheap (less than 75 cents) beer or two.

While I would love to have a day like this, the time and travel constraints probably will keep this from ever happening, but this is my Beijing. This is a great place with a lot to offer. If you want to spend the day as a tourist this is very easy, if you want to spend it as a local (as much as a really tall white boy can) this is even easier. There are so many great things that I have yet to discover here. My ideal day may very well look a whole lot different in another year. I am just excited that I am lucky enough to have the chance to experience these events.

All the best,

Zai Jian

1 comment:

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